I hopped a flight to Punta Arenas--the final frontier in Chile, and quite literally the edge of the world (not counting Ushuia in Argentina). I was going to do the bus thing, but I opted to fly, seeing as it would take days criss-crossing between Chile and Argentina since there are no direct roads. The other option was the Navimag, which is three days of sailing and sounded like fun, but in the interest of time and budget, flying was the best bet.
Punta Arenas is the southern most populated town in Chile. It's beautiful in its own way, but quiet and desolate. I took a walk around the boardwalk that they are constructing. It really will be something special when it's done.
It stays light outside until 11 PM this far south, and the horizon seems to go on forever. I have never seen such beautiful skies (without Photoshop)...maybe it has to do with the latitude, but the clouds are incredible here!
Puerto Montt is port city--think Long Beach, but slightly dirtier and with a German influence. I wasn't expecting a lot from Puerto Montt because it's really just a gateway for Patagonia, and I knew before my arrival that there wasn't going to be a whole lot to do.
I couldn't get an online reservation for a hostel (the only places left were overpriced private rooms), so I decided to just wing it. I hopped off the bus, got my bearings, and found a lady who owned a hospedaje. I did end up getting a very nice private room--and one that fit my budget.
I spent two days in Puerto Montt wandering the city and found it to be kind of charming. Sure, it was different from Pucon, but I got to interact more with locals. I listened to street music, bought some hippie jewerly, did laundry for the first time in two weeks, and tried to get a feel for the city.
I also met Ivan, a local artisan who does amazing work with leather. He makes these intricate works of art by burning pictures into leather and wood. We had a nice conversation in Spanish. It was weird--he mentioned something about sangre (blood) that I couldn't quite understand, until I realized it was his roundabout way of asking what my hertitage was.
In Chile, most of the other travelers I meet think I'm Canadian, and the Chileans think I'm Japanese. And sometimes I just roll with it...The security guard had the biggest smile on his face when he greeted me with, "Konnichiwa!" Anyway, I learned a lot about what it's like living so close to the end of the world from Ivan. He told me about his life, and I told him some things about California. He made me a little leather keychain with my name carved in it as a gift to remember him by.
Puerto Montt is also the place where I've had the best meal in Chile--a superbly prepared salmon cerviche (and it was only $5 USD). It was delicious! Other than that, the food here in Chile hasn't been all that special (apart from the fresh fruit juices). I'm holding out for Argentina.
Cajon Del Maipo is a camping/recreational area set in the mountains an hour outside Santiago. I spent the entire day hiking and climbing. There are some really good routes for leading and top roping.
The scenery reminds me a lot of Malibu Creek back home. It's kind of strange to be so far away, and see scenery that looks kind of the same.
I met Luigi and Sasha, an Italian guy and Ukrainian girl, who are studying in L.A. They were both really good climbers. Even in the intense heat, we were able to get in some pretty good routes. I love that the sun doesn't go down until 9 o'clock here. It means there is that much more daylight, and more time to climb!
As I sat on the floor of the yoga studio waiting for the Indian concert to begin, what am I doing here, was a thought that crossed my mind more than a couple of times.
An indian concert in Chile?! There are stranger things...I guess...
I wasn't really sure what was going to happen, then the music started. With an audience of about 80 people, we all sat sprawled out on the floors and spilling out into the backyard, burning incense, and listening to classical music from Northern India.
They played a bunch of instruments that I didn't know, but the rhythm was enchanting. It was intensely spiritual and awesomely weird.
Wine tasting in Chile is a must. Wine is now one of the country's largest exports, and you can always find plenty of the good stuff in the markets and botellarias, or you can go straight to the source and do some tasting at the vineyards.
Concha y Toro is a beautiful vineyard about an hour away from Santiago. There are fliers in just about every hostel offering packages to Concha y Toro, or you can try to navigate your way there by public transporation.
The $7.000 CLP admission includes a guided tour in English or Spanish, two tastings, and a souvineer glass. The tour was really informative. We learned about the history of the vineyard, saw the gorgeous mansion with French architecture and 22 rooms, the immense gardens, the acres of grapes, and the cellar with barrels and barrels of fine wine.
We tasted a sweet white wine and a rich red wine. It was really good...although I really don't know anything about wines, and I probably can't tell the difference between the boxed wine and the expensive stuff.
Still, I was so impressed that I decided to buy a bottle home for a gift. How I will fit it in my backpack and travel with it for the next 6 and a half weeks...I still don't know...we'll see if it makes it back home...
Like most Latin American countries, Chile has its fair share of plazas, public parks, and green space. El parque de las esculturas is one of the more innovative ones. The Chilean Government commissioned artists to design sculptured installations for the park, so it´s like one big, green museum with at least 20 sculptures and different trees from around the world.
The grounds are kept in pristine condition with golf-course worthy grass. I also couldn´t help but notice the lack of graffiti and trash. It´s really a beautiful park to take a lazy stroll and look at the cool artwork. Mostly people come here to take pictures and to makeout.
The charming neighborhood of Conception, set in the hills, is very San Franciscan with its colorful buildings, political art, and stacked housing.
Santiago, Chile
When I first landed in Santiago, I was greeted by a barrage of "Hey Lady, where do you need to go?" and "Hey Lady, I take you where you need to go." A polite "No, gracias," was not enough to fend off the determined cabbies and shuttle drivers who persisted in following me until I made a dash for the restroom. With my unmistakeable backpack and weird shoes, they could smell tourist all over me. It was a little overwhelming at first, but I knew exactly which bus I needed to take and had somewhat of an idea about how to get to my hostel.
It's weird orientating yourself in a new city. Your senses are so raw because you're trying to take everything in...the smells, the sights, the people, the environment, the colors...
The beauty of Santiago didn't strike me immediately. After I settled into the hostel, I decided to take a walk to get acquainted with the city. I started walking, and it wasn't until halfway through my journey, when the hidden beauty of Santiago really started to surface. I don't know how else to describe it but as a thriving metropolitan with hidden charms.
In Plaza del Armas and the centro part, there is an urban beat...the streets surrounding that area are teeming with people. It's easy to get lost in the crowd and nice to people watch, but even I'll admit to feeling a little agoraphobic among the sea of people. The other parts of the city are much quieter. And it becomes easier to spot Santiago's hidden charms...the green space...the mix of European and Latin architecture, the public squares, the cobblestone streets, and the mix of friendly people.
I only wandered to one questionable area, but quickly left. And even that wasn't so bad. There was a farmer's market/swamp meet thing going on, but when the neighborhood noticebly changed, I took that as my cue to leave.
So far, so good. I'm liking the balmy Chilean weather--it feels like California in the summer time. I'm happy it's not humid. And I love that the sun stays out until 9:30!
