We heard about some natural, unspoiled hot springs at the edge of the Ventana Wilderness in Big Sur, and just had to see it for ourselves. My friend, Cuong, and I made the 11-mile backcountry journey from the Big Sur Forest Ranger Station, following the winding (sometimes demoralizing) Pine Ridge Trail. The first three miles were the worst. We started our hike in the mid-afternoon heat, and much of the beginning of the trail is exposed. Adding to that was the seemingly continuous uphill and downhill action that kept us guessing when we would finally level out. Physically, it's a pretty demanding hike (especially with 20-30 pound packs of gear), but the payoff is definitely worth it!
At about the 7.5 mile marker, we reached Barlow Flats (one of the designated campsites on the map). With the sun sinking into the horizon, and our hunger signaling that it was close to dinner time, we decided to make our camp there for the night. Barlow flats is a nice secluded campsite that can probably accomodate four groups. (There are a few other sites scattered on the trail, and one at Sykes.) We found a nice flat spot close to the stream for easy water access. It was really tranquil (except at night when the water was roaring), and there are nice swimming holes further downstream if you can stand the cold.
The unique thing about backcountry camping in Ventana is that each designated site has a wilderness toilet. Basically, it's a pine-wood constructed pit toilet without walls, so you are very much at one with nature...but it beats digging a hole.
We left for Sykes early in the morning, and had a little trouble locating the hot springs. Tip: Follow the direction of the signs for the wilderness toilet and continue past it, following that same general direction. We criss-crossed the river a few times, but knew we were there when we smelled the unmistakable odor of sulfur.
There were three (that we found) hot tub sized springs (one large one) perched on the edge of the cliff overlooking the river below. The scenery is nice. The temperature is hot (not luke warm) like some springs. And the natural beauty of it makes it easy to relax and take in the mellow vibes of Big Sur. You can soothe your weary body and find peace in the therapeutic springs. Because it's such a journey to get there, the droves of people are kept away, and the pristine environment is kept intact.
Essential Information:
- No reservations or camping fees are required
- Fire permits (for camping stoves) are required, but can be easily obtained at the ranger's station free of charge.
- Parking is $5/night
- Trail maps of the Ventana Wilderness showing all the designated campsites can be purchased from REI or Sportsbasement for about $14
- There is no running water, but most campsites are located near a fresh water source, so filtration devices or purification tablets will work
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