The Unfinished Story...

Whispers from the Desert

2012-01-04T01:20:00.000-08:00

Nature and its raw beauty...We pulled over to the side of the road, and behind us was a sunset with such vibrant intensity that it felt almost otherworldly. Winter camping in Death Valley is filled with open skies, beautiful sunsets, starry nights and landscapes that seem to stretch to infinity.

We spent four days camping at Furnace Creek. The temperature dropped to the mid 30s in the middle of the night--chilly mornings, but comfortable daytime temperatures. Death Valley is so big--We logged a lot of driving miles, hopping from one scenic point to the next. The salt flats were probably my favorite.

Rocking Out

2011-08-23T15:16:00.000-07:00

Mount Diablo State Park

SF Underground Market

2011-04-23T12:45:00.000-07:00

We went to the SF Underground Market where we got to sample some some fantastically inventive culinary creations. In the spirit of pop-up restaurants and the food truck sensation, the underground market is a way to bring backyard and home-kitchen style cooking right to the people, giving aspiring chefs the chance to share their food with the public without needing commercial grade facilities.

Concept-wise the underground market is nothing short of brilliant. Here's the way it works: Everyone who wants to attend these events has to sign up as a member. Sign-up is quick and painless, only requiring an email address and acknowledgment of the indemnification agreement. A date is set and a venue is rented out for the event. This last time it was held at the Public Works building in the Mission.

There's a $5 cover charge at the door, and once inside you can pick and choose what kind of food and treats you want to buy. The different booths had food ranging from $3 - $6, and portion sizes were generous. We bought several different dishes to share amongst the three of us, and found ourselves happily stuffed after only a handful of different plates. My favorite food of the night was the duck gnocchi, the rabbit stew, and the chocolate and pistachio bread pudding. The Dungeness Crab tostados looked good too, but there were so many other things we didn't get to try.

The Public Works building isn't enormous, but the Forage SF crew managed to pack a lot into a small space: two floors of vendors, scattered tables and seating, a stage with a live band, two full bars, and the art gallery (for additional seating), as well as the back patio with outdoor seating and a couple more vendors.

Come early to avoid the long line that wraps around the building. And once inside, tag-team the lines to get your food because as the night goes on, the lines only get longer.

Alamere Falls Hike

2011-01-29T22:57:00.000-08:00

I thought places like this only existed in dreams...

Alamere Falls is my new favorite hike--with a waterfall that breaks right onto the beach, miles of rugged coastline, mossy-green covered trails, and scenic panoramic views--it's my recipe for a perfect hike. The only thing that was missing was the sun. But even the dense fog and the rain that rolled in couldn't damper our mood when we finally made it to the falls.

Getting to the trailhead was a mission in itself. Located about an hour's drive from San Francisco, the hike starts at the Palomarin trailhead in an unmarked dirt parking lot at Point Reyes National Seashore. It's accessed by the 1-Coast Hwy, criss-crossing roads that are so winding they look like they belong in a high performance car commercial. We overshot Olema-Bolinas Road looking for a street sign that didn't exist, and serendipitously ended up at a turnout with another lost car looking for the same road. A friendly hiker gave us a trail map, and we were able to find the unmarked road.

The hike itself is an easy 8-mile R/T trek with sweeping views of the ocean on one side and verdant eucalyptus groves on the other. We encountered a lot of salamanders and banana slugs on the wet trail. By the time we reached the falls, we got a brief reprieve from the rain and fog, and we timed it just right to be on the beach at low tide.

How to get there:
(From SF) Take the 101 to Hwy-1 North toward Stinson Beach. Continue on Hwy 1, and make a left on Olema-Bolinas Rd. If you miss this unmarked street, the next available left is Horseshoe Hill Rd. Both streets meet up, so you can take either road. Turn right on Mesa Rd. past the Point Reyes Bird Observatory. The road turns into a dirt road that leads to a small parking lot, and the beginning of the Palomarin trailhead. (No Adventure Pass or parking permit is needed)

Trail:
Stay on the main path that follows the coast. Where the trail forks, follow the sign toward Wildcat Camp. There will be a sign for a detour to the Alamere Falls Trail on the left. The sign cautions hikers that the trail is dangerous and unmaintained, but it's actually fairly well-traveled and even the rocky scramble down to the falls didn't seem too treacherous.

a weekend away from the fog

2011-01-17T20:37:00.001-08:00

Living in the Bay has made me sun-starved. I'm tired of sweaters and jackets and spontaneous downpours. I miss living in sandals year-round, real beaches, and the vivid blues and greens that make everything seem alive. How rejuvenating it was to be back for a So Cal weekend in mid-January that felt like summer! On Saturday I was grinning like an idiot all day just because the sunshine made me happy--I couldn't help myself. I guess it is the simple things that really matter to me...

Around the corner was this beach. In the mornings, I went for bare-foot jogs--loving that feeling of the sand under my toes. I watched the surfers paddle out past the breaks, did cartwheels in the sand, and just tried to soak it all in.

Spelunking in the Santa Cruz Caves

2010-12-07T01:30:00.000-08:00

An unforgettable, dirt-filled, exhaustive adventure through the Santa Cruz Caves...It rained just enough on Sunday to make it interesting. We were slipping and sliding over everything, and most of us had trouble keeping our foot placement on the slick holds. We spent eight hours exploring the depths of the elaborate labyrinth of caves--crawling, shimmying, and climbing our way through the honeycomb network, and we still didn't see it all.

There was a lot of laughing, a lot of, "You want me to fit through that? Head first or feet first?" kind of talk. We felt like we were in The Goonies movie. Tiny little passage ways opened to larger caverns. We could see how getting lost could be so easy. The darkness disguised the deep trenches where one misstep could lead to...we tried not to contemplate that thought. It was a good thing we had Stan to navigate us around the dangerous maneuvers and to lead us back out to the safety of the open air.

We made it to the hall of faces--a large cavern where people have crafted artistic creations of everything imaginable into the walls, using the grimy, muddy, clay-like substance. We left our own sculptures--a giraffe in a boat, a snake, a bear, and Ryan did reconstructive surgery on some of the faces that were already there. We read through the notebook that served as a visitors log and left our own notes.

This was a lot like the caving Chrissy and I did in Budapest except that for this one more technical climbing ability was needed. We learned some good chimney and stemming technique on the fly through some good tips from Stan. It's really not the kind place to venture without someone who knows what they're doing. And as Stan suggested, "you might want to reconsider if you wear an XL shirt."

When we finally made it out of the caves and retrieved the bags of gear we had hidden from the path, we were starving and ready for some group bonding time over pizza and beer. The look on people's faces was priceless when we emerged from the forest and bum-rushed the public restrooms all mud-encrusted and rain-drenched, looking like characters from "The Swamp Thing."

Special gear required?

head torches
knee and elbow pads
mud-ready shoes that are good on slick surfaces
someone who knows where they're going

Thanksgiving

2010-11-26T16:10:00.000-08:00

The older I get, the more I realize how important tradition has become...

I don't just mean turkey--but the whole ritual of all 30+ people gathered around the extended table (that seems to grow each year), the passing of the food, the continuous laughter, the loud conversations, side conversations, and commotion of it all...Thanksgiving has somehow slipped past Christmas for my favorite holiday.

Bouldering near Putah Creek

2010-11-06T23:53:00.000-07:00

Taking advantage of the unseasonably awesome bay area weather, and getting acquainted with my new playground...

Good people + good weather + good bouldering + peaceful scenery = a perfect day. This quiet little spot near Winters beats Glen Canyon.

Sharktoberfest!

2010-10-16T01:42:00.000-07:00

How does shark week and beer go together? Sharktoberfest! at the Cal Academy of Sciences
Each week the museum hosts a different theme for the special nightlife program. This month it was sharks and beer. The museum opens after hours, which is kind of cool, and admission is only available to those 21 and older. Patrons get the entire run of the museum, and there are food vendors and bars set up around random exhibits--think club night for the intellectual crowd.

My roommate, Courtney, and I had a good time exploring all the exhibits, handling starfish in the marine touch-tank, trying to figure out where all the shark displays were, getting freaked out by the albino alligator--all while enjoying some nice craft beer...For a shark week theme, we couldn't find too many exhibits relating to sharks (I think we counted 2). It was the one disappointment of the night.

Admission for nightlife is only $12, compared to the normal day price of $20 for adults. It's actually a brilliant business plan--charging a low cover and raising the premium on drinks-- which is exactly what they did. Eight dollar beers, eleven dollar wine, food was reasonable though--I'm sure they made a killing!

Still, it's fun exploring the museum at night--another one of those activities that are uniquely San Franciscan...

Big Sur Sojourn

2010-10-03T19:14:00.000-07:00

We heard about some natural, unspoiled hot springs at the edge of the Ventana Wilderness in Big Sur, and just had to see it for ourselves. My friend, Cuong, and I made the 11-mile backcountry journey from the Big Sur Forest Ranger Station, following the winding (sometimes demoralizing) Pine Ridge Trail. The first three miles were the worst. We started our hike in the mid-afternoon heat, and much of the beginning of the trail is exposed. Adding to that was the seemingly continuous uphill and downhill action that kept us guessing when we would finally level out. Physically, it's a pretty demanding hike (especially with 20-30 pound packs of gear), but the payoff is definitely worth it!

At about the 7.5 mile marker, we reached Barlow Flats (one of the designated campsites on the map). With the sun sinking into the horizon, and our hunger signaling that it was close to dinner time, we decided to make our camp there for the night. Barlow flats is a nice secluded campsite that can probably accomodate four groups. (There are a few other sites scattered on the trail, and one at Sykes.) We found a nice flat spot close to the stream for easy water access. It was really tranquil (except at night when the water was roaring), and there are nice swimming holes further downstream if you can stand the cold.

The unique thing about backcountry camping in Ventana is that each designated site has a wilderness toilet. Basically, it's a pine-wood constructed pit toilet without walls, so you are very much at one with nature...but it beats digging a hole.

We left for Sykes early in the morning, and had a little trouble locating the hot springs. Tip: Follow the direction of the signs for the wilderness toilet and continue past it, following that same general direction. We criss-crossed the river a few times, but knew we were there when we smelled the unmistakable odor of sulfur.

There were three (that we found) hot tub sized springs (one large one) perched on the edge of the cliff overlooking the river below. The scenery is nice. The temperature is hot (not luke warm) like some springs. And the natural beauty of it makes it easy to relax and take in the mellow vibes of Big Sur. You can soothe your weary body and find peace in the therapeutic springs. Because it's such a journey to get there, the droves of people are kept away, and the pristine environment is kept intact.

Essential Information:

No reservations or camping fees are required
Fire permits (for camping stoves) are required, but can be easily obtained at the ranger's station free of charge.
Parking is $5/night
Trail maps of the Ventana Wilderness showing all the designated campsites can be purchased from REI or Sportsbasement for about $14
There is no running water, but most campsites are located near a fresh water source, so filtration devices or purification tablets will work

The Concrete Luge

2010-09-24T23:21:00.001-07:00

I'm loving San Francisco and all of its quirky surprises. Nestled in the middle of a quiet residential neighborhood is a hidden park with two concrete slides carved into the hillside. The Seward Street Slides are so unexpected--a rare urban delight that you don't expect to find in litigious America. Because of its clandestine location (you won't find it unless you're looking for it), its unknown to most San Franciscans, and the park's nearby residents would probably prefer to keep it that way. Too bad the secret's already out. Sorry, nearby neighbors. I discovered it while doing a search for interesting things to do in the city. There's already a fan following on Yelp.

In need of a study break, I met Cait for lunch and suggested that we try to find these concrete slides. She had no idea what I was talking about, and she's lived in the city for years. I only had a vague idea of where the slides were (and secretly doubted their existence), so we stopped a couple of times to ask for directions from some friendly locals. Cait was a little skeptical when the directions kept leading us up and further up the steep hills with no sign of any park or slides. It was a trek, but worth it when we finally found them. Part of the slides attraction is the tucked away location that makes you feel like you've stumbled onto a little secret.

There are scraps of cardboard cut from boxes left in a pile of sand for you to ride on, or you can BYO cardboard. We also found plastic McDonald's trays that people left behind for riding, and even a metal baking pan, if you're feeling really adventurous. It's pure reckless fun--the kind that makes you feel like you are six again.

The slides are deceptively fast. People sometimes hurt themselves having too much fun. A little boy actually warned us of its dangers, telling us about his older sister who had to wear a scarf for a month because of a cement burn she got on her neck. "It's dangerous, you can get really hurt," he said with wide eyes. Still, how could we resist? The two slides just beg to be, well, slided on...And since there are two, you can race your friends.

So if you're looking to get reacquainted with your inner child, or just want to look for something different to do in the city, the slides are worth a visit. But be conscious of the posted signs about the noise (for the neighbors' consideration), and know that they cite people if you try to slide after hours. The park is only open from 9am - 5pm, which is a rule that the neighbors make sure is enforced. I guess if I lived there, I wouldn't want all kinds of drunk crazies trekking to my neighborhood to ride the slides at 2am either.

How to get there? The slides are located on Seward and Douglass. It can be accessed from 20th Ave, which is very walkable from the Castro neighborhood if you're willing to brave the hike up into the San Francisco hills.

What Happened in Africa?

2010-08-12T13:42:00.000-07:00

Africa is a place of such contrasts. Its wild and untamed beauty is often masked by the associations we make from western headlines of violence and poverty--and there's no ignoring that that side of it exists, but it's hard to put the words to paper and to describe the kind of experience it was...

Fia and I met for coffee the other day to reminisce...

The highlight reel of all the things I never want to forget:

The image of the isolated airport, so remote, so middle-of-nowhere, and so green--symbolic of the adventure that we'd soon begin
The mist soaked walk through the falls
Nami Nami peddlers and learning how to deal with them
Appreciating the moment for what it is
Befriending the street hawkers
That moment when the danger became real in the Compound
The shock of Bongo getting arrested
Watching the World Cup game with the raucous crowd at Shoestrings Hostel
Seeing the wildlife up close
Cruising down the Zambezi
The surprise luxury of Botswana
That first night by the fire
The 5am starts, and rolling that muddy tent...
Acclimating to the funky truck water
Eating lunch on the side of the road
Laughing it off and adopting the expression, "T.I.A."
A reminder of what it means to live simply
The giddy, unsuppressed, uncontrollable laughter
Tracking rhino Discovery Channel Style with Andy
Getting up close and personal with a pride of lions--the tension of wondering if we were all going to become lion feed

Our Mission Impossible stunts and the shenanigans we pulled to crash the volunteer party
Summer camp style pranks with the Aussie guys
Buying cashews on the side of the road
Laying out all night in the hammocks
Drinking wine on the porch and watching the sunset
That tragic night--18-years-old--lost to the sea...recognizing the fragility of life
Riding in the back of a death trap wind tunnel
Our visit to the orphanage--a reminder that we do what we can, but it's never enough
Getting a better understanding of real African politics and how things work
Midnight yoga
Waking up to the sound of the surf outside our bungalow, and going for a morning run on the beach
That night at the bar--Sean asking "if God would be there"
Whale watching by speed boat
Visiting the Soweto township and realizing that this is someone else's reality
The experience of the Apartheid Museum
Learning about the world through the eyes of others
Running to make our flight...would it be a proper trip for the two of us if it didn't involve us madly running through the airport?
An experience polarized by Toronto--the stark contrast between two worlds

New Mexico in the Wintertime

2009-12-28T13:22:00.000-08:00

My first ever white Christmas, and Christmas on the road...

It's been a long time since all five of us have gotten time together for vacation. And a reminder on why family roadtrips are rough...love them to death, but that many hours in car together would test anyone. Still I wouldn't trade the experience =)

New Mexico is cold. I hate dressing in so many layers. It's pretty outside, but I'd rather stay here in this cozy adobe house, munching on peanut butter cups from Trader Joes, and enjoying this glass of wine in front of the fire. It's pretty, but I have a new appreciation for the sunny So Cal Christmases.

Puerto Rico--Back to where it all began

2009-08-22T01:50:00.000-07:00

I still have vivid impressions of my first airplane ride...I was eight-years-old, and my family was headed to Puerto Rico. Since then, I've always associated airports with that feeling of electric excitement--a gateway to destinations unknown. I still store captured images of that magical trip to PR--the tiny frogs that sounded like birds, the strange air that felt stuck (my first experience with humidity), the coconut my dad tried to open by running over with the rental car, the fancy hotel, and the old streets of San Juan. This trip was special because I'm pretty sure it's where I caught the travel bug that has since festered and grown greedy with need, causing me to feel restless every so often...

So it only seems fitting that 16 years later, I'm back to where it all began...I can't believe how much things have changed, or maybe it's that I see things differently than from through my eight-year-old lens...

The beauty of Puerto Rico is still as I remember it, but of course much about the island has changed. I feel a deeper connection with the culture now that I can appreciate the historic context and intermix with some of the local people in Spanish that I've acquired along the way.

This trip marks some new memories...trying to locate the house we rented in the middle of the barrio without street signs, having breakfast on the balcony overlooking the ocean and cemetery (weird mix), munching on fresh BBQ along the pork highway, living on Culebra Island, diving and snorkeling in the aqua colored reefs, jumping in the ocean on a full moon night with newfound friends, returning to the old streets of San Juan, and feeling at ease with island life.

Back to Real Life

2009-03-17T12:57:00.000-07:00

After two months away...I'm back home again. It seems like everything should of changed, but things are still the same. I miss traveling the Gringo Trail, but it's still good to be back. I desperately need to do laundry.

It feels strange being behind the wheel again. Driving. Filling my car with gas--all these mundane things that I never thought about while on the road and traveling dirty-backpacker-style. I need to go for a drive and think.

I catch myself slipping in a "gracias" to the clerk when he hands me my change. Things are a little different, but I think it's me who's changed.

Art for Peace: United Buddy Bears

2009-03-15T13:07:00.000-07:00

We have to get to know each other better, it makes us understand one another better, trust each other more, and live together more peacefully

We stumbled upon an art exhibit in the middle of one of the open-air plazas of Buenos Aires, Plaza San Martin. It was hard to miss the colorful, life-size, fiberglass bears all lined in a circular row. I love the idea of art with a social message.

The United Buddy Bears, are a traveling world exhibit intended to promote world peace, understanding, and tolerance. Each of the bears is uniquely designed by an artist from one of the 140 countries recognized by the United Nations. The bears started their world tour in 2002 in Berlin, and since then have made their rounds to 17 international cities, with the latest being Astana, Kazakhstan.

The bears are always arranged in a circle to look like they're holding hands. Too bad peace and cultural acceptance isn't this easy in real life...

Bikes and Wine

2009-03-12T11:42:00.000-07:00

Wine tasting on bikes--what a novel concept! The town of Mendoza is outfitted perfectly for this activity. Timmy and I rented bikes for the day from Mr. Hugo's Bike Shop. It's 50 Argentine pesos for the day, which gets you a map of the wine route and the use of a rickety old bike.

The late start had us determined to see as many vineyards and do as many tastings as time would allow. We stopped at a food and liquor tasting first, then it was on to the vineyards. We toured a working vineyard and got to see some of the inner workings of the wine making process. Then we sampled many glasses of good Argentine wine. I lost count as the distinctions of each place seemed to blur together past the bucolic scenery.

The police in Mendoza are very tourist friendly. Since wine tasting on bikes is such a common activity, they patrol the area looking for wine tasters that have had a few glasses too many, and offer rides to the riders and their bicycles. When Timmy and I had trouble finding one of the vineyards, a police officer on a motorcycle offered his help. He ended up giving us a police escort--leading the way on his motorcycle in slow speed so that our bikes could follow--right up to the front doors of the wine tasting room!

At our second to last stop we met Wally, a crazy, fun-loving Canadian from the Yukon. It was clear Wally came to Mendoza with two goals: to get a tan and to get as drunk as possible while still retaining the ability to ride a bike. Wally turned everything into a big party. We joined him and the two girls from New Zealand, shared a bottle or two at the next stop, and marveled at the view of the sun-drenched vineyards from the patio.

Wanting to savor the moment, we lingered a little too long at the last place, and had to race back to return our bikes to Mr. Hugo's on time. When we got there, Mr. Hugo was throwing a party of his own for all the people who had rented bikes from him. We sat in his yard, talking, laughing, and drinking some cheap table wine supplied by Mr. Hugo who made everyone feel like family.

San Telmo Sunday Market

2009-03-03T19:54:00.000-08:00

I'm back in BA--and at the right time--just in time to see the streets come alive for the Sunday Market in San Telmo. The streets are littered with blankets of rasta jewelry for sale, food vendors selling baked bread, mate, and fresh squeezed juice, and an antiques market in the public square selling everything from old buttons to chandeliers. Beautiful music floods the streets and tango dancers perform for the crowds. There are enough street performers to make Venice Beach seem like a sideshow.

I can't help but smile, getting swept up in the festive mood of San Telmo. This is the Buenos Aires that I've been waiting to see!

I try to navigate the busy streets with the Australian girl I just met, and we go in search of the fresh fruit stalls. The only thing that could interupt the festivities of the day is bad weather. It starts to pour and we duck into the antiques market to wait out the storm. The tables get folded up, the blankets of jewerly wrapped up, the musicians begin to pack up their instruments, people start scatter like ants--And just like that, the party disappears.

When it rains in Buenos Aires, it really pours! I'm kind of disappointed, but at least I still got to catch a glimpse. Maybe when the rain calms down, I'll get off the computer, and take another look around.

Montevideo, Uruguay

2009-03-02T17:13:00.000-08:00

I packed my small daypack and took a three-hour bus from Colonia to Montevideo whose crowded urban sprawl is such a dramatic change from the quiet life in little Colonia. I fall asleep on the bus, and suddenly I'm surrounded by the noise of traffic and car horns. Montevideo's terminal surprises me--it's one of the biggest bus stations I've ever seen (it's also connected to a huge shopping mall).

I head over to the tourist information area, and ask the lady what I can see in Montevideo in ten hours. She starts circling things on the map, telling me excitedly about the big modern shopping mall they have on the edge of the city. She starts rattling off expensive Western brands, and hands me back the map. I thank her, and smile politely, hoping that it conceals my disappointment. I didn't come all the way to Uruguay just to shop at stores we have back home. Instead, I opt to do some exploring on my own.

I exit the station and look around for the intercity buses. I spot one that is marked "Ciudad Viejo." Sounds interesting. I hop on the bus and hope it will take me somewhere that isn't a mall. As we pull away from the station, the big windows pass views of skyscrapers, old stone buildings, and street markets. I have no idea where I'm going or where I'll end up, but I'm excited!

Colonia de Sacramento

2009-03-01T17:03:00.000-08:00

A short ferry ride from Buenos Aires (1-3 hours) will take you into Colonia de Sacramento, Uruguay. Colonia is a charming little Portugese town officially declared a world heritage site by UNESCO. The cobblestoned streets, fortified walls, and old churches make it seem like you have stepped back in time. There are no traffic signals or stoplights in town. The pace of life is relaxed and mellow--a world away from the chaotic movement of Buenos Aires or even Montevideo, Urugauy's busy capital city.

Another Chinatown

2009-02-26T16:45:00.001-08:00

For Mom and Dad: Yes, there is a Chinatown in Argentina.

On almost every family vacation I can recall, the first thing my parents want to see is Chinatown. And there seems to be one in even the unexpected places across the globe. This one is just outside of Buenos Aires, right off of the Belgrano train stop.

So, Mom and Dad, this picture is for you:

It kinda looks like all the others.

Train to El Tigre

2009-02-26T16:40:00.000-08:00

For about 80 cents (U.S.) you can catch an hour train ride from Buenos Aires to El Tigre. It's a great day trip to escape the hectic city, and service runs fairly frequently from the Retiro train station.

El Tigre is like Tom Sawyer Island. It's a city that straddles the delta on el Rio de la Plata, and the waterways are the main thoroughfare. Big boats, little boats, and barges that pick up garbage go up and down the river. You can buy fruit and vegetables from the small boats, or watertaxi your way down through town.

All of the houses have their own makeshift little docks, and there are campsites right along the river. People were fishing, swimming, playing volleyball, and doing bellyflops off the small docks. El Tigre is a fun little town to see if you have an extra day in Buenos Aires, especially on the weekends when they have there big markets.

Recoleta Cemetery

2009-02-25T16:39:00.000-08:00

The famed Recoleta Cemetary in Buenos Aires is the burial spot for some of Argentina`s rich and famous.

I`ve always found cemeteries to be a bit creepy, but this one is actually one worth visiting. The elaborate tombs and mausoleums are really an incredible sight. There are narrow passageways that lead to even more ornate burial rooms. It's like a small city of graves, which sounds a little morbid, but it's actually more like visiting a museum with all the marble statues and Gothic-style architecture. The rich and famous went through great lengths to try and outdo each other, so you can imagine the intricacy of all the fancy tombs.

The last plots in Recoleta filled up in the 70s. In some graves, whole families are buried together. Some of the mausoleums have clear panels of glass that you can see right through to the coffin...those were a little creepy.

In Recoleta the dead are not forgotten--instead they're visited by hundreds of tourists every day.

Otto Meiling: the mountain outpost

2009-02-19T16:28:00.000-08:00

We heard about a party up at Otto Meiling, and decided to join in on the fun. Otto Meiling is a remote mountain outpost near the tronador outside of Bariloche. The little refugio was celebrating its 35th anniversary, which meant a lot of locals and a party somewhere up in the mountains. It sounded good to us!

Katie, Andy, and I planned our meals and stocked up on food from the grocery store then went back to pack our bags. After Torres Del Paine, the weight of my pack hardly seemed like anything.

The next morning, a two-and-a-half hour bus ride brought us to the trailhead, and we quickly set off for Otto Meiling. The switchbacks looped back and forth and there were steeper short-cuts to shave time off the main trail--we almost always chose the shortcuts.

The hike was steep, with a 1900 Km elevation gain. It was a tough trek, but we were rewarded with incredible views and perfect weather.

When we reached Otto Meiling, there was a tiny tin lodge. It looked so remote sitting on top of the mountain surrounded by nothing but snow and the open air. We were above the clouds and the treeline, so there were perfect 360 degree panoramic views of everything above and below, set against a perfect blue sky.

We laid out on the rocks watching the sun go down, and did a little reading. I don't think we could've asked for a more perfect setting.

A live band came to play for the party. They managed to haul their amps, guitars, microphones, and drums up the mountain somehow, so we were rewarded by live music on top of the mountain. The backdrop was surreal--it made it feel like we were in a ridiculous music video.

This was one of those rare moments that you just want to bottle and hold on to the memory of forever. The audience kept singing along in Spanish and English. Everyone was caught up in the moment, and nothing existed except for the lyrics and rhythmic melody. The band was very talented. Nobody could stop smiling. In more ways than one, it felt like we were on top of the world.

Dinner for the three of us that night was prepared mostly by Andy. (It's so nice when a guy can cook.) He made chile con carne with rice, and we devoured it along with the two boxes of red wine that we packed with us up the mountain.

Later that night, we brought the leftover wine with us outside and sat atop the rocks looking up at the blanket of stars that had lit up the night sky. We talked about how special it was to be apart of the entire experience, and watched as a couple of shooting stars shot overhead.

At night the little cozy lodge was transformed into a dance floor, and we danced along to the vibrant latin music and raegaton.

So many people had turned up for the party that it made the sleeping arrangements interesting, but it only added to the experience. Up in the tiny attic was where the 70 plus people were supposed to sleep. Backpacks had to be left outside, and mattresses were laid out completely covering the floors. It was two mattresses for every three people (a good thing we had come as a threesome), but it was basically 70 strangers sleeping shoulder to shoulder in one massive slumber party. Getting up to go to the bathroom in the middle of the night was tricky though...

Small Circuit Bike Ride

2009-02-18T16:25:00.000-08:00

One of the best ways to see Bariloche and all its splendor is to rent a bike for the day. We choose to do the 40 km circuito chico, which makes a loop around the mountains and lakes area.

The bikes we rented were really well-equipped. They had excellent brakes, good tires, and the rental company even provided us with locks, helmets, and an emergency repair kit.

Katie (England), Andy (England), and I all met on the 28-hour bus ride from El Calafate and decided to do the bike ride together. I was feeling pretty good, taking in the pretty scenery and cruising right along...then came the hills...and I quickly realized 40 K was not going to be as easy as I thought. My quads were feeling it after the first killer hill.

We were so lucky to have such good weather, and the viewpoints were amazing! The best part was flying down the hills, feeling the wind in our faces, and the surge of adrenaline as we kept picking up speed on the endless downhills. It made the struggle of going up the massive hills worthwhile. It was also a good thing our bikes had such responsive brakes.

There are all sorts of different little trails for day hiking and camping, and our bikes gave us the freedom to see what we wanted. We biked to different lake areas, and hiked to some spectacular miradors. We even made our way to the famous Llao Llao hotel, an exclusive place at the top of the hill given the prestigious title of "hotel of the world."

We also biked through Colonia Suiza (the Swiss town). The wooden handcrafted buildings were so quaint, and we had the best ice cream.

Bariloche, Argentina

2009-02-17T16:23:00.000-08:00

Bariloche is a small Northern Patagonian town set in the mountains over a sparkling lake. In the winter time it transforms into a bustling ski village. In the summer, there's an array of outdoor excursions to choose from.

The town has a heavy Swiss influence that is noted in the architecture and the delicious chocolate. The streets are lined with choclaterias and ice cream shops. I met up with a bunch of other travelers from the hostel and we did a midnight chocolate run. There are so many things to love about this place.

28 hours of contemplation

2009-02-16T16:33:00.000-08:00

It's 28 hours from El Calafate to Bariloche--my first marathon bus ride. Thank goodness the buses in Argentina are so luxurious and comfortable. Even in the semi-cama class, the seats recline way back. It's more comfortable than flying.

What do you do on a bus for 28 hours? Sleep. Talk. Contemplate. Eat. Listen to iPod. Watch pirated movies that they show on the bus. Then contemplate some more...

My roommate, Andy (England), from the hostel in El Calafate happened to have the seat next to me--a nice coincidence. We got to know each other better on the bus, which made the 28 hours more bearable. We talked, shared food, played rummy, and I taught him how to play Big 2.

Occasionally the bus stops in random towns to refuel and everyone gets a 10-minute break to stretch or go buy food. We made one weird stop in this tiny town with nothing but dirt roads and dust. It was our longest stop (30 minutes). I think our bus driver wanted pizza from the one restaurant in town. The rest of us stood around snacking, and waiting for the tumbleweed to go by.

Perito Moreno Glacier

2009-02-15T14:40:00.000-08:00

Okay, so I lied about there being nothing to do in El Calafate. There is one thing to do here. You can go see the Perito Moreno Glacier, which is the only game in town. But even if you skip the pricey tour and take the public bus, it´s still kind of expensive.

The Perito Moreno Glacier is quite a spectacular sight though. I didn´t think I would be too impressed since I already saw Glacier Grey in Torres Del Paine, but the massiveness of Perito Moreno is mind blowing. You can hear and watch big chunks of ice falling from the glacier. It sounds like loud claps of thunder.

The glacier seems to stretch infinitely. All I could see for miles were dramatic landscapes of ice, and where the sun hits, it turns a beautiful hue of blue.

El Calafate, Argentina

2009-02-13T14:27:00.000-08:00

Yay, I'm in Argentina! After a 5-hour bus ride and several passport inspections, I have finally made it over the border. It's weird calculating things in another currency. I was just getting used to $600 Chilean pesos to $1 U.S. dollar, now it's 3:1 with the Argentine peso.

So while it's exciting being in another country, I can't say that I'm thrilled with El Calafate. There are tourists towns, and then there are tourist traps...I should have listened to the Australian girl when she said to try to avoid El Calafate (even though from Puerto Natales it's kind of unavoidable). Everything in El Calafate is outrageously overpriced, and there is really nothing to do. After a half day of bumming around I was ready to leave so I went back to the bus station to buy my ticket to the next place. Unfortunately, the next bus bound for Bariloche didn't leave for another three days. Ouch!

BANFF Mountain Film Festival

2009-02-12T14:23:00.000-08:00

It rained in Puerto Natales again, but I'm getting used to the strange weather patterns here. Four days of good weather followed by four days of bad--this is the bad run apparently.

After our return from Torres Del Paine, we needed a couple of lazy days. Ben was headed to Ushuaia and I was on my way to El Calafate, but we spent two rest days in Puerto Natales doing nothing in particular. We hung out with the Aussie couple and Martin (from Switzerland). Mostly we got together to eat because we were hungry all the time after nothing but camping food in the mountains for five days.

The second night it stormed violently. It was a perfect night to head to the film festival. Most of the town showed up and filled the small auditorium.

The BANFF Mountain Film festival is on their world tour. They do a series of different adventure films from around the world. The films are very well-done, even Martin was impressed (and I get the feeling he is difficult to impress). The whole audience was engaged.

The first film was about white-water kayaking, the second film was about base-jumping, the third about rock climbing, the fourth about free-climbing, and the last was about mountain biking. I think the film festival would even be appealing to people who didn´t have interests in those activities.

The best film of the night (it won an award) was the German made film that followed the life a Sweedish female base-jumper. It did a really good job in capturing the emotional side of the sport (within six years of beginning base-jumping most people will die or quit). The film also gave good insight into what made her tick and why she couldn´t walk away from the lifestyle. The ending took everyone by surprise, and the audience sat in an awed silence. It made me rethink the lengths we go through in the name of adventure, and to reconsider the costs of such pursuits. Highly recommended.

Chile happened to be part of the BANFF Mountain film festival´s world tour, but it is also playing on various upcoming dates in the California area. See the link above for locations and dates.

Trekking in Torres Del Paine

2009-02-11T20:07:00.000-08:00

They say that there are seven different micro climates in Torres Del Paine, and that on any given day it can snow...

I think we experienced all seven micro climates, and it did snow on our last day.

The weather in Patagonia is so unpredictable. We noticed that at the ranger's station, instead of having a weather forecast, they had a weather history. The only thing you can really count on are the Patagonian winds. They are so strong that they can knock you off your feet.

That being said, Torres Del Paine is probably the most diversified national park I have ever been too. The scenery that you see on different parts of the trek, does not seem like it belongs in the same park. The different viewpoints are distinctively stunning.

The water in Torres Del Paine is so fresh that you can drink it straight from the rivers and streams--no need to pack gallons of water or deal with the purification tablets.
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DAY 1: We take the Catamaran over to Refugio Pehoe--our starting point for the ¨W.¨ It's rainy and cold, and our packs are packed full. The rain starts to lift and is replaced by high winds, then sunshine. We hike for 4.5 hours to Glacier Grey, and setup camp at Refugio Grey. Then we hike for a couple hours with our day packs to get a better look at the glacier.

It's the first time I've ever seen a glacier. I didn't know that a block of ice could look so amazing.

Dinner that night is a simple spaghetti bolognese and a mug of coffee. It tastes like the best spaghetti I've ever eatten--camping food always tastes good no matter what it is.

Sleep comes easily that night.
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DAY 2: We hike for 6.5 hours to camp Italiano. The weather is not too bad today either. Our pack weight is still heavy, and my feet are feeling it. We're both so exhausted from the uphill hike that we decide to postpone the late-afternoon hike to Valle de Frances until morning.

Later we meet a French guy who describes the Valle de Frances as "the most beautiful thing he's ever seen in his whole life." We're excited and a bit skeptical.

We have just enough energy to make our mushroom rice for dinner. It also tastes good, lucky for us because we have a lot of rice.

We meet a group of Israelis in the cooking shelter who ask to borrow cooking gas. We end up sharing whiskey, learning some choice words in Hebrew, and smoking hookah. I can't believe they brought hookah all the way up the mountain!

The weather starts to change once night falls. The winds pick up and so does the rain. It feels nice in my warm sleeping bag and our cozy tent.

I hear a squeaking noise in the middle of the night and scampering right above our heads where all our smelly shoes are. I shudder and try not to think about the rat that is likely sharing our tent.
_______________________

DAY 3: Ben's alarm goes off early so we can squeeze in the Valle de Frances hike. It's cold and rainy outside our tent. I don't want to get out of my sleeping bag and into my dirty clothes again, especially my less than fresh socks.

We get up anyway. The hike is beautiful, but we're freezing. The fierce winds and rain don't really help. We hike for two hours, but the rain created a roll of fog around everything. We couldn't see the Valle de Frances, but at least we got to see the most perfect rainbow.

It's back to camp where we make a soup for breakfast and have some hot coffee. Our hands finally start to defrost. We pack up camp and keep trekking to Los Cuernos Refugio. The first two hours of the hike are the worst. My feet are screaming from the weight of the pack, and the weather is relentless. The freezing cold rain coupled with the biting winds make the drops of rain feel like little needles hitting our faces. Ben and I are usually chatty on our hikes, but for that stretch we probably said only a couple words to each other. It doesn't matter that we have our Gore-tex rain jackets on. We're wet, cold, fatigued, and feeling beaten down by mother nature. Nature is humbling that way...

We reach Los Cuernos in 2.5 hours, our stopping point for the day according to the Erratic Rock plan, but Ben and I decide to push it to the next camp so that we can have an easy day four. Six more hours later we're exhausted, but we see the sign for Hosteria Torres and practically crawl into camp. I've never been so happy to see a sign!

We sleep really well that night.
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DAY 4: After day three's 10 hours of continuous hiking, we feel like rock stars. My feet no longer feel sore, but the uphills for this day are a killer.

Still, we roll into campamento Torres super early and have our pick of campsites. It's so early that we don't know what to do with ourselves. We start to get really cold from sitting around and snacking, so we decide to have a peak at the Torres. It's a one-hour scramble over a ton of boulders--not easy--but at least we're no longer cold.

We get to the end of the trail, but can't actually see the Torres because of the thick fog, and it starts to snow.

We head back down, do an early dinner, and try to go to sleep early so that we can try to see the Torres at sunrise like Rustyn suggested. Neither of us can fall asleep so early so we end up talking about random things until eventually one of us nods off.
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DAY 5: My alarm sounds at 4 AM and again at 4:15. Neither of us wants to get up in the cold darkness. Ben finally makes the first move and starts to get up while I cocoon myself deeper into my sleeping bag.

We take our headlamps, sleeping bags, stove, snacks, and soup packets, and do the same mountain scramble only in the darkness and with bigger packs. We have our headlamps, and the moonlight illuminating the sky, but it's still hard to see.

It´s freezing and light bits of frosted snow are falling making our climb more slippery. We don´t see any headlights around us and wonder if we were the only crazy ones who decided to try to catch the sunrise. A few minutes later we are joined by two Israelis stumbling behind us in the darkness.

Ben and I found a little cave the afternoon before when we were scouting the Torres, and that´s exactly where we decided to make ourselves comfortable while we waited for the sunrise. One of the Israelis decided to join us in our hovel. We started making our soup and I got comfortable in my sleeping bag. The cave shielded us from the gusty winds. For a fifteen minute window the skies cleared and we were able to catch a glimpse of the Torres. We were happy we actually got to see them this time.

We packed up camp and hiked back to Hosteria Torres in record time, and shared our pictures and stories with the Australian couple, Dave and Erin, who we kept running into on the trail.

The bus ride back to Puerto Natales was full of smelly backpackers since most had gone without showers for five-plus days, and we were in the same grungy, muddy, and sweat-stained clothing. All we could think about was a nice hot shower and some dinner with a lot of meat.

Puerto Natales: Preparing for the trek

2009-02-07T20:06:00.000-08:00

Puerto Natales, a small town five hours north of Punta Arenas, is known as the gateway to the famous Torres Del Paine National Park. National Geographic has made it out to be legendary, so I was more than a little curious...

I had one thing on my mind when I got to Puerto Natales: to find a trekking partner to do the Torres Del Paine circuit with. It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. I ran into Ben at the Erratic Rock talk, and we decided we would team up to do the "W"--a five-day trekking circuit.

Erratic Rock is a hostel that hosts free Torres Del Paine trekking lectures every day at 3 PM, whether you stay at their hostel or not. I heard about the famous talk through the traveling grapevine from as far north as Santiago.

The talks are given by Rustyn (originally from Oregon) who is part owner of Erratic Rock and editor for the English Patagonian publication, Black Sheep. Not only is the lecture wildly entertaining, it's packed with good information for the seasoned backpacker/camper and beginners alike.

Patagonia's unique weather pattern and special conditions mean that it's different from your typical backcountry camping. Rustyn was more than happy to pass down his experience. Rather than answer the same questions all day, he decided to do one comprehensive talk that addressed everything and opened his doors to everyone.

There were about 40 of us who had turned up for the Erratic Rock talk. That's how I met my trekking partner, Ben (England).

It might seem strange to go off and do a five-day camping trip with someone you barely know, but traveling has a way of accelerating friendships, and you kind of start to develop an instinct for who you can trust. Actually, Ben and I had met before in a hostel in Santiago, and again at a hostel in Valparaiso where we were roommates. So when we met again at the lecture, it was a natural decision for us to team up.

After the talk, Ben and I finalized our plans over pizza and beer.

Puerto Natales is perfectly set-up for backpackers and trekkers, so we were able to rent everything we needed. We rented sleeping bags and mess kits from Erratic Rock. The mess kits came with a small mountaineering stove, small cooking pot, 2 plastic bowls, 2 mugs, and 2 utility spork/knives. Then we headed over to Victor's to rent our tent. It was a tiny 2-person tent but we were happy because it was light-weight.

Once the big stuff was out of the way, we went around town looking to buy cooking gas, matches for the stove, ziploc bags, and other supplies. Then we raided the grocery store. I could tell that Ben and I were going to get along great once we started doing the supermarket shopping.

We picked up some packets of soup for our breakfasts, cookies and granolas for the grab and go lunches, pasta and bolognese packets for dinners. We also brought little juice packets and a couple extra treats. The dried fruit market was where we did the most damage. I think we spent the majority of our food budget on dried fruit--almost $20 U.S.

We took everything the erratic rock guy said seriously. He suggested we bring a set of wet clothes and dry clothes--one set to wear during the day to get rained on, sweated in, and another set to be comfortable in around camp.

Rustyn's other big piece of advice was on how to waterproof your stuff. Raincovers don't work in Patagonia. His solution was to plastic bag everything--garbage bag for the sleeping bag, tent, food, clothes, and ziplocs for all of the food.

We were able to find garbage bags at the grocery store, but apparently all the gringos (according to the store clerk) cleaned out the entire stock of ziploc bags earlier that day. We were too late. Ben and I spent the remainder of our time trying to steal plastic bags from the fruit section of the grocery store. Then we found one small supermarket that was still open that late at night, and they actually had ziploc bags!

Later that night, Ben met me at my hostel so we could plastic bag all of our stuff and divide the load. A bus would pick us up at our hostels at 7:15 the next morning, and if we weren't on the same bus, we'd meet up at the park entrance.

Walking with the Penguins

2009-02-06T18:01:00.000-08:00

My timing is good! It happens to be penguin season in Patagonia right now.

A two-hour boat ride from Punta Arenas takes you to Isla Magdalena where thousands of penguins come to breed. When the boat pulls into the island, you are free to roam the 210 acres and take as many pictures as you like, which I did.I have many, many photos of the black and white feathered creatures.

You'd think that after a while, snapping pictures of penguins would get boring...tell that to the boatload of tourists with their SLRs, all vying for the perfect shot. It's fun to pretend you're a wildlife photographer...besides penguins are so cute!

There are hundreds of thousands of Magellanic penguins on the island. The sheer numbers are astounding. The penguins walk right along side of you--they get so close, and they aren't camera shy. One of the penguins started trying to eat some guy's pants. We all took pictures of that too.

The baby penguins are the ones that still haven't shed their feathers. They're so adorable! Until they've completely shed their feathers, they are dependent on the adult penguins who have to fish for them.

I have too many pictures of penguins!

The Edge of the World

2009-02-05T20:05:00.000-08:00

I hopped a flight to Punta Arenas--the final frontier in Chile, and quite literally the edge of the world (not counting Ushuia in Argentina). I was going to do the bus thing, but I opted to fly, seeing as it would take days criss-crossing between Chile and Argentina since there are no direct roads. The other option was the Navimag, which is three days of sailing and sounded like fun, but in the interest of time and budget, flying was the best bet.

Punta Arenas is the southern most populated town in Chile. It's beautiful in its own way, but quiet and desolate. I took a walk around the boardwalk that they are constructing. It really will be something special when it's done.

It stays light outside until 11 PM this far south, and the horizon seems to go on forever. I have never seen such beautiful skies (without Photoshop)...maybe it has to do with the latitude, but the clouds are incredible here!

Puerto Montt

2009-02-04T17:59:00.000-08:00

From Chile

Puerto Montt is port city--think Long Beach, but slightly dirtier and with a German influence. I wasn't expecting a lot from Puerto Montt because it's really just a gateway for Patagonia, and I knew before my arrival that there wasn't going to be a whole lot to do.

I couldn't get an online reservation for a hostel (the only places left were overpriced private rooms), so I decided to just wing it. I hopped off the bus, got my bearings, and found a lady who owned a hospedaje. I did end up getting a very nice private room--and one that fit my budget.

I spent two days in Puerto Montt wandering the city and found it to be kind of charming. Sure, it was different from Pucon, but I got to interact more with locals. I listened to street music, bought some hippie jewerly, did laundry for the first time in two weeks, and tried to get a feel for the city.

I also met Ivan, a local artisan who does amazing work with leather. He makes these intricate works of art by burning pictures into leather and wood. We had a nice conversation in Spanish. It was weird--he mentioned something about sangre (blood) that I couldn't quite understand, until I realized it was his roundabout way of asking what my hertitage was.

From Chile

In Chile, most of the other travelers I meet think I'm Canadian, and the Chileans think I'm Japanese. And sometimes I just roll with it...The security guard had the biggest smile on his face when he greeted me with, "Konnichiwa!" Anyway, I learned a lot about what it's like living so close to the end of the world from Ivan. He told me about his life, and I told him some things about California. He made me a little leather keychain with my name carved in it as a gift to remember him by.

From Chile

Puerto Montt is also the place where I've had the best meal in Chile--a superbly prepared salmon cerviche (and it was only $5 USD). It was delicious! Other than that, the food here in Chile hasn't been all that special (apart from the fresh fruit juices). I'm holding out for Argentina.

Ziplining

2009-02-03T19:23:00.000-08:00

From Chile

If you have a taste for adventure, Pucon really does have it all. I've always wanted to go ziplining, and decided for my last day in Pucon, I'd give it a try. We took a bus through the mountains to a small lodge where they outfitted us with harnesses, helmets, and a carbiner device that connects to the cable.

All the instructions they gave us (including the safety talk) were in Spanish. The canopy operators only knew a few words in English, and enough about American politics to smile and say, "Arnold Schwartzeneger," when I told them I was from California.

After a few questions, we were ready to take off. The first canopy is a short little test. There, you get to test your stopping and slowing down ability--basically you pull on the cable gradually with your rear arm to slow down so you won't hit the tree (it's like a breaking system).

Then we moved on to the giant ziplines. I don't remember how many meters it was, but the ride was long, going from one mountain to the next. I could feel the wind violently blowing in my face, and see the the picturesque mountain and valleys below. After that, we got to ride six more cables. They set up a whole course up there. My only regret is that I wish they had let us try it upside down.

Canyoning in Pucon

2009-02-02T16:59:00.000-08:00

From Chile

After the volcano climb was postponed due to the early morning showers, Martin and I decided to go canyoning. It was six hours of rappelling down waterfalls, trekking through canyons, and river crossings.

Rappelling down a waterfall is actually not as exciting as it sounds...you use a basic descent device, a harness, rope, carabiner, and let yourself down. There's not that much too it. I think I prefer going up.

The real treat was in the trekking. The scenery alone made it worth it. The canyons were so green and lush. It looked like a scene from Lord of the Rings. They equipped us with wetsuits and water shoes so we were able to just slosh through the river and climb around in the amazing canyons.

Climbing Volcan Villarica

2009-02-01T17:14:00.000-08:00

From Chile

After Panama, I wasn't sure if I wanted to climb another volcano...because although the view at the top was great, it was hard--the excruciating kind of hard that you don't appreciate until later. But climbing the volcano seems like the thing to do here in Pucon. Every adventure outfit in town has volcano trips that leave early morning. The prices were variable, so we shopped around for the best one.

Tseela already signed up with some of her Israeli friends. They came to our hostel to tell us about the great price they found, $35.000 CLP ($10.000 cheaper than most of the other places). We went to check it out and decided to sign-up as well. Nature Adventures is an Israeli-run hostel/adventure outfit. The people there are so nice, and Martin and I didn't really mind that we were the only non-Israelis in the group. Although we joked that in the event we were stranded on the mountain, we would probably be the first to be eaten, being so outnumbered. They fitted us for snow-trekking boots and packs and told us to come back at 6:45 AM.

We were disheartened to learn the weather forecast for the next day called for rain. The weather here can change so quickly. The day before it was sunny with clear blue skies. Our trip was postponed until the next morning.

The next day we did the early morning wake up again, but we were better prepared and actually had time for breakfast. It was beautiful weather again with clear blue skies.

The adventure outlet already had our sizing from the day before and we were fitted with boots, waterproof pants, and gaiters. They gave us pants with a waterproof jacket, crampons, a weird butt pad thing, gloves, a helmet, and an ice axe.

There were 12 of us in the group--with everyone speaking a weird mix of Spanish, Hebrew and English. We had three guides with us, and Claudio, the head guide, was all business.

There were no unscheduled breaks, no stopping or slowing of the pace, we all had to keep in formation. He was serious about getting us to the top. The steep climb and falling rocks make for a potentially hazardous climb, but he assured us if we followed his instructions and used our tools properly (ice axe, crampons, and helmet) we would all make it to the top.

If anyone started slowing down and the line started to stagger, he would make the person stand to the side, and radio to the other guide, who was bringing up the rear with the slower group.

Our original group of 12 was staggered by the halfway point. Two people ended up going back with one guide. The slower group and faster group had five each. It was unusual having a guide who was so strict, but it was clear that Claudio knew exactly what he was doing. I felt really safe compared to some of the other groups with other guides who looked like they were just wandering the mountain. Snow and ice really aren't my element, so it was good to feel confident in Claudio

The climb was hard, but not as hard as the Panama one. I was directly behind the guide the whole way up, so it was just a matter of keeping step. I found that about halfway up, I hit my stride and got my second wind. Wearing crampons was kind of cool, and so was wielding an ice axe.

From Chile

We did make it up the volcano at exactly the time Claudio said we would due to his strict scheduling, and it was completely worth it. The views were beyond amazing. We could see smoke coming out from the opening, and the top of the volcano had an otherworldly look to it. The patches of snow mixed with the volcanic texture and made the curved surface look almost alien.

Going down was a lot more fun than going up. On the snowy parts, we got to go butt sliding, which I guess is the reason for that butt pad thing in our packs. We put on the rest of the clothing in our bags that was unused until this point, and followed our guides to the sliding areas. There were seven or eight slides going down. The very first one was the best. It was carved out like a tunnel/slide, and it felt like riding the Matterhorn without a bobsled.

From Chile

Pucon

2009-01-30T20:22:00.000-08:00

From Chile

I knew right when I got off of the bus that I was going to like Pucon. Santiago was an okay city. I loved the subway system and ease of getting around, but in the end, a city is just a city like every other city.

Pucon is a mountain town in the Chilean Lake district. The landscape is dramatically different and the smog-free air has that fresh mountain scent. It reminded me of Boquete, but slightly larger. The big volcano in the picture is the backdrop for the town, and no matter where you are, you can always spot it.

I met Tseela (from Israel) and Martin (from England) at the hostel, and the three of us hit it off from the beginning. Tseela and Martin are both software engineers. Martin has been to almost every country on earth...okay, well a lot of countries. He's been to all seven continents, but still has more to explore. I guess if you have that travel bug in you, it never really goes away.

After walking around town, we went for a swim in the volcanic lake. The beach is really rocky and the lake water is frigid, but clear--perfect for a swim in the mid-afternoon heat.

Martin and I spent the afternoon playing in the water, and enjoying the reprieve from the intense sun. I learned that he loves to scuba, and that he's an extensive traveler. His pattern is something like this: work continuously for a year to a year and a half and take four to six months off to explore someplace new. You would kind of think by now, after all that traveling, nothing would be able to impress him anymore. But then, when splashing around in the lake, we were both equally in awe of our surroundings, so I guess it never gets old. You can see a million beautiful things, and not lose that sense of wonder. I hope I never do...

Wine and Cricket

2009-01-28T15:06:00.000-08:00

From Chile

I met Natalie (from San Francisco) and Aaron (from England) over a spaghetti dinner at the hostel. We spent the night sharing stories, travel talk, and getting to know each other over wine and spaghetti.

Natalie works for a non-profit environmental organization in SF, and was doing the same circuit as me in-reverse over 7 weeks. Aaron's trip is a bit longer; he doesn't even have a predetermined return date. He spent some time in Asia and is now in South America. He was the inventory manager for Jaguar--just decided it was not fulfilling and quit one day, then hopped a flight to Asia.

I decided to share the bottle I bought from Concha y Toro because the idea of traveling with it for any more days wasn't all that appealing. It had only made it 48 hours. I ended up ditching the souvineer glass too, and donated it to the hostel kitchen after I used it. No more unnecessary baggage--I'll save my souvenir shopping for the end of the trip--lesson learned.

From Chile

Anyway, there is a crickett cage in our hostel! Natalie and I convinced the English guy (Aaron) to teach us the basic rules so we could try it out because Americans don't know anything about cricket except that it's kind of like baseball. There's still a lot of the game that doesn't make sense to us. I think Aaron got tired of us making references to baseball as he tried to explain, but we still had a lot of fun.

The good, the bad, and the dirty

2009-01-28T14:57:00.000-08:00

It's been 14 days and six different hostels to date (not counting the overnight in the Lima airport). None of the places I've stayed in have lacked character, but some of them have been a bit grungy, some have been fantastic, and everything in between.

El Yoyo hostel in Valparaiso was in a run-down old building. One of the Cal Poly engineers from my room pointed out that the walls in our dorm weren't even built at right angles. He was right. Everything was kind of slanted. I liked the quirkiness, even if the bathrooms were a little rustic. To get hot water we had to light a match to spark a fuse for the gas tank. It wasn't the cleanest of hostels...and my bed sort of slumped, but for some reason I had the best nights' sleep. I didn't even hear the guitar playing and off-key singing at 4am that kept my roommates up. They told me at breakfast they wanted to break the guy's guitar.

From Chile

In contrast, La Casa Roja was like the Shangri La of all hostels. It's definitely the nicest hostel I've ever stayed in. They transformed it from a 19th century old colonial mansion, and most of the original detail and architecture has been preserved. My room was an 8-bunk dormitory, but it still felt incredibly spacious with its cathedral ceilings and well-placed furniture. There were a lot of common areas in this hostel, and big courtyards in the middle of the massive mansion. This hostel even had a pool with a swim up bar! I spent most of the day hanging out in the pool playing beach volleyball with Eddie, the Australian guy. We traded stories from home, and got sunburned in the pool.

From Chile

This hostel seemed to think of everything including an ipod docking station. And I had the best shower in two weeks!

My least favorite hostel so far was Luz Azul in Santiago. The common areas are very nice, but it reminded me of the first night backpacking in Barcelona. The bunk beds are stacked high, almost to the ceiling, and they cram 14 bunks into one room. I had one of the top bunks. People kept coming and going at weird times in the middle of the night, and with 14 people in one room it was hard to get any sleep. Plus sometime around 4am, a girl and a guy staying in the room decided to have loud sex on the bunk below me. Not only could I hear everything, but I could feel the bed violently rocking back and forth. And coincidentally, it's the same thing that happened to Chrissy on the top bunk in the Barcelona hostel. It's gotta be at least a little awkward doing it in plain sight with 12 other people in the same room. Try sleeping through that!

So far, the hostels have been a mixed bag--some good, some not so good, and some rustic. The dirtiness and less than ideal bathroom situations don't bother me as long as I have a clean bed to sleep in. I can deal with the showers that operate only at two temperatures: freezing cold and scalding hot. I can put up with the dorm rooms that sometimes smell like wet socks (travelers are dirty). I do, however, have a strong preference for the bottom bunk.

Climbing in Cajon Del Maipo

2009-01-26T13:05:00.000-08:00

From Chile

Cajon Del Maipo is a camping/recreational area set in the mountains an hour outside Santiago. I spent the entire day hiking and climbing. There are some really good routes for leading and top roping.

The scenery reminds me a lot of Malibu Creek back home. It's kind of strange to be so far away, and see scenery that looks kind of the same.

I met Luigi and Sasha, an Italian guy and Ukrainian girl, who are studying in L.A. They were both really good climbers. Even in the intense heat, we were able to get in some pretty good routes. I love that the sun doesn't go down until 9 o'clock here. It means there is that much more daylight, and more time to climb!

Indian Concert

2009-01-24T13:02:00.000-08:00

As I sat on the floor of the yoga studio waiting for the Indian concert to begin, what am I doing here, was a thought that crossed my mind more than a couple of times.

An indian concert in Chile?! There are stranger things...I guess...

From Chile

I wasn't really sure what was going to happen, then the music started. With an audience of about 80 people, we all sat sprawled out on the floors and spilling out into the backyard, burning incense, and listening to classical music from Northern India.

They played a bunch of instruments that I didn't know, but the rhythm was enchanting. It was intensely spiritual and awesomely weird.

From Chile

Concha y Toro

2009-01-23T12:48:00.000-08:00

From Chile

Wine tasting in Chile is a must. Wine is now one of the country's largest exports, and you can always find plenty of the good stuff in the markets and botellarias, or you can go straight to the source and do some tasting at the vineyards.

From Chile

Concha y Toro is a beautiful vineyard about an hour away from Santiago. There are fliers in just about every hostel offering packages to Concha y Toro, or you can try to navigate your way there by public transporation.

The $7.000 CLP admission includes a guided tour in English or Spanish, two tastings, and a souvineer glass. The tour was really informative. We learned about the history of the vineyard, saw the gorgeous mansion with French architecture and 22 rooms, the immense gardens, the acres of grapes, and the cellar with barrels and barrels of fine wine.

From Chile

We tasted a sweet white wine and a rich red wine. It was really good...although I really don't know anything about wines, and I probably can't tell the difference between the boxed wine and the expensive stuff.

From Chile

Still, I was so impressed that I decided to buy a bottle home for a gift. How I will fit it in my backpack and travel with it for the next 6 and a half weeks...I still don't know...we'll see if it makes it back home...

Park of the sculptures

2009-01-21T12:28:00.000-08:00

From Chile

Like most Latin American countries, Chile has its fair share of plazas, public parks, and green space. El parque de las esculturas is one of the more innovative ones. The Chilean Government commissioned artists to design sculptured installations for the park, so it´s like one big, green museum with at least 20 sculptures and different trees from around the world.

From Chile

The grounds are kept in pristine condition with golf-course worthy grass. I also couldn´t help but notice the lack of graffiti and trash. It´s really a beautiful park to take a lazy stroll and look at the cool artwork. Mostly people come here to take pictures and to makeout.

From Chile

From the far corners of the world

2009-01-20T07:57:00.000-08:00

From Chile

Hostels are a great meeting spot. There are few other places where you can gather around a table and have a good conversation with people from so many other countries: Ireland, England, Brazil, Chile, Estonia, Spain, Japan, Australia...like a mini U.N. without all the squabbling...

From Chile

The first night, I stayed up late talking to the girl from Estonia, the Irish couple, and the professor from Cal State San Bernardino. We shared stories, exchanged travel tips, and passed on the second and third-hand stories from the road.

The second night we celebrated at an asada (Chilean style BBQ) with our Chilean friends--good food, good music, and more good conversation.

From Chile

They introduced us to this drink--a carved out melon, with pineapple ice cream and white wine. I liked this better than pisco sours. We played a game of pass the melon, and everyone got a taste.

the many colors of valparaiso

2009-01-19T19:45:00.000-08:00

From Chile

The charming neighborhood of Conception, set in the hills, is very San Franciscan with its colorful buildings, political art, and stacked housing.

VIew from the Top

2009-01-17T09:56:00.000-08:00

Santiago, Chile

Wandering in Santiago

2009-01-15T15:50:00.000-08:00

When I first landed in Santiago, I was greeted by a barrage of "Hey Lady, where do you need to go?" and "Hey Lady, I take you where you need to go." A polite "No, gracias," was not enough to fend off the determined cabbies and shuttle drivers who persisted in following me until I made a dash for the restroom. With my unmistakeable backpack and weird shoes, they could smell tourist all over me. It was a little overwhelming at first, but I knew exactly which bus I needed to take and had somewhat of an idea about how to get to my hostel.

It's weird orientating yourself in a new city. Your senses are so raw because you're trying to take everything in...the smells, the sights, the people, the environment, the colors...

The beauty of Santiago didn't strike me immediately. After I settled into the hostel, I decided to take a walk to get acquainted with the city. I started walking, and it wasn't until halfway through my journey, when the hidden beauty of Santiago really started to surface. I don't know how else to describe it but as a thriving metropolitan with hidden charms.

In Plaza del Armas and the centro part, there is an urban beat...the streets surrounding that area are teeming with people. It's easy to get lost in the crowd and nice to people watch, but even I'll admit to feeling a little agoraphobic among the sea of people. The other parts of the city are much quieter. And it becomes easier to spot Santiago's hidden charms...the green space...the mix of European and Latin architecture, the public squares, the cobblestone streets, and the mix of friendly people.

I only wandered to one questionable area, but quickly left. And even that wasn't so bad. There was a farmer's market/swamp meet thing going on, but when the neighborhood noticebly changed, I took that as my cue to leave.

So far, so good. I'm liking the balmy Chilean weather--it feels like California in the summer time. I'm happy it's not humid. And I love that the sun stays out until 9:30!

Rafting Photos and Reunion with the Alexes

2008-12-22T20:00:00.000-08:00

After making promises to meet up after vacation, we finally reunited with the Alexes (five months later). It's silly, especially since Fia and I work only a couple blocks away from Alexander. We all laughed about it taking us so long to get together, but with Alexandra doing her grad studies at Cal Tech, and the rest of us wrapped up in day to day work, time just got away from us. It's funny--when you're on travel time, promises to keep in touch and go out for coffee always seem very doable, then you get back...

Anyway, we had a good lunch at a fast-food Italian place and reminisced, and caught each other up on our lives. Alex also had copies of the CD of photos from our rafting trip in Costa Rica!

The photos reminded us of how much fun we had on the rafting trip! It was a solid day of rafting on the Pacuare River (rated one of the top five rafting destinations by National Geographic)--highly recommended if you happen to find yourself in the Talamanca region of Costa Rica. We booked with Exploradores Outdoors, and for around $80 USD you get transportation, luggage/backpack storage, the use of showers and changing rooms, a hearty breakfast buffet, standard gear (helmet, flotation devise, paddle), an experienced guide, a continuous 5-hour trip down river in class 3 and 4 rapids, and lunch. The scenery was breathtaking--cascading waterfalls and incredible greenery...

More rafting photos are posted to my new windows live account here. I've been looking for a large capacity, free, photo hosting site for my upcoming trip. I love the features of Picasa and Photo Bucket, but the free accounts are limiting. (I've maxed out both of my Picasa web album accounts since it limits users to 1 GB) A friend recommended Windows live (skydrive.live.com) since it offers 25 gigs of free storage, and it can be used for other data besides photos. So far, I don't really like the user interface, but with 25 GB free, I can't complain.

It's been awhile...

2008-09-30T11:50:00.000-07:00

It's been way too long since my last post. Not that the past couple of months haven't been exciting...just busy. Here are some highlights:

Explored the Downtown LA Artwalk. It happens every month on the second Thursday, and there are all sorts of galleries, showrooms, and exhibits that open their doors to the public. Even some of the museums get in on the action. Both MOCAs grant free admission.

We got a map and lost it. Then we spent the time wandering from venue to venue, enjoying live music, mixing with the crowd, and trying to envision how all of this would look 5 to 10 years from now. L.A. is changing so quickly already...

We didn't have the time to do it all in one night, so we revisited it again the next month, and are planning to do so again.

_____________________

Timmy and I are now PADI certified open water scuba divers! It was an exciting but intense couple of weeks in route to our certification. We went through Eco Dive Center in Culver City, and had a great experience. They're very knowledgeable and thorough--we felt well-prepared when it came time to test our skills in the ocean.

The course is set-up really well. There is a Padi Open Water Diver's Manual. It's designed like a textbook and reads like one too--complete with homework and all. There is an accompanying dvd that compliments the textbook, but the dialogue is taken verbatim from the book, which covers everything from the simple science, to dive gear, safety, mechanics, and even conservation.

By week one's end we had to have gone through half the textbook and completed three knowledge reviews (no joke about the homework). I got a call from my instructor reminding me to bring in my homework. Early Saturday morning we met at the dive shop for our first classroom instruction. We met the other students and the two other instructors. We went over the material again, and had to take three quizzes. There was a short break for lunch before the meet-up at the local city pool in Hawthorne.

A quick demo on assembling gear, and it was off to real practice in the pool. You could tell that we were all newbies by the effort and length of time that it took us to get into our gear. That scuba cylinder (tank) is heavy--it was nice to get into the water. We worked on different skill sets: buddy breathing, hand signals, clearing and removing our masks under water. I realized I have poor airway control.

Sunday was a fun day. We met in the San Pedro harbor in the afternoon, loaded our gear on to the dive boat and headed out to Catalina Island. More practice with the dive skills--but this time out in the open ocean.

I can't even begin to describe the type of feeling you get from diving. Another world opens up, and you're suddenly surrounded by all kinds of life.

The excitement of the dive trip got us in gear for another week of reading and homework. In week two there were more dive skill lessons to be learned. We had a different instructor this time around, and he was just as great. Pool training first, then we took the final exam.

I went home that night to throw stuff into an overnight bag, and then if was off to the Port of Call where we setup our gear and chose our bunks. It's amazing how many people they managed to fit in such close quarters. We were literally sleeping on top of each other, but it was still fairly comfortable. It helps that the other divers were easy-going, fun people. I think divers in general are mostly that way. I had a great conversation with Ivan--a new diver in our group from Serbia. We talked a lot about American politics and his home country, which I know isn't a subject you're supposed to broach with new people, but it turned into a very enlightening and fascinating conversation.

We sailed at night, and even with the cabin hatch open the weather was perfect. I woke up at 6am feeling the clean sea breeze blowing in my face and the sound of seagulls flying overhead. We were docked somewhere in the Channel Islands. After a hearty breakfast we put on our equipment and got ready for our dive. This was a special dive where we got to swim with sea lions. They encircled us and would swim right up to the face of our masks! It was incredible! They're like energetic, playful dogs underwater. We did a couple more dives and headed back to the mainland. I can't wait to see where our next diving adventure will take us!

Glow: Santa Monica Art Show

2008-07-16T21:14:00.000-07:00

We had an awesome time at Glow! It was like all of L.A. had descended on Santa Monica. I don't think I've ever seen the beaches so full of people after dark, or the Santa Monica Pier that crowded. I thought at one point the pier might collapse on to itself from the weight of all the people. The crowds were so dense that you couldn't even move except as one big collective group. Traffic was a nightmare; the freeway was at a standstill; and driving in general was just chaotic. Not the event for you if you're an agoraphobic.

Wanda and I ended up parking far--and I mean almost in West L.A. far. It was a good 10 block plus hike to the center of the action, but the streets were teeming with people and it felt like a fun night festival. The 7pm to 7am setup was brilliant. I really have to give it up to the city of Santa Monica for putting on such a great event. I think the turnout topped what anyone was expecting, which just goes to show if you put it on, people will come.

I feel like the art scene in L.A. is underrated and they need events like this to spark excitement in people. The audience was very eclectic. It drew tourists and locals alike; families and party-goers, serious art-goers and people who were just curious.

Wanda and I got the chance to see most of the installations--some we enjoyed, and others just perplexed us. The coolest things was probably the amazing mental scope. It was fun getting to see your brain waves reflected in bright neon colors over the famous Santa Monica ferris wheel. The weirdest thing? That award goes to the Department of Nocturnal Affairs. We couldn't decide if those people were joking or serious--interesting nonetheless.

And it was fun being out there so late with everyone else. We enjoyed the nightlife. The temperature on the beach was perfect. We probably could have slept there for the night had we come better prepared. Next time we're bringing tents.

We cruised around Third St. for a bit, feeding our midnight snacking frenzy with whatever we could find. We ended up in Xooro, one of those fancy places that takes a simple food, dresses it up a bit, and then charges an exorbitant price tag i.e. Sprinkles Cupcakes (but at least those are good cupcakes). Xooro has done a new take on churros. Well, I wouldn't exactly call it a new take--it's just a fancy version of a churro covered in different toppings like chocolate or caramel, and the inside has a cream filling.

We thought, what the heck, we're here we might as well try it. We paid almost five dollars for a third of a churro! It was tiny! It wasn't terrible, but for almost five bucks you expect something sinfully delicious, and it was just okay...something I would only buy rarely for a dollar.

Whereas some would argue that Sprinkles is justified for charging three plus dollars for a fancy cupcake, I don't see how Xooro can get away with their less than spectacular churro. I predict that even in a place like Santa Monica, where people are willing to pay more for something trendy (we did it afterall), Xooro can't last in this tough economy. I don't see them as a mainstay like Pinkberry or Sprinkles.

So despite our experience at Xooro, we had a great evening and early morning. We wanted to stay until the end to watch the water dance, but around 5am the crowds started to dwindle and so did our energy. We called it a day, and headed home.

It was so much fun that we hope the City of Santa Monica will continue to sponsor this and make it an annual event. Maybe other cities will take notice and do something similar...one can only hope =)

Lost memories

2008-07-07T23:14:00.000-07:00

So somewhere between Costa Rica and Mexico City, I lost my sketchbook/journal. It's floating somewhere out there in Central America...

I've had that journal-sketchbook since before my study abroad trip in China, and now it's lost. All those captured thoughts and memories...gone...It had special sentimental value to me, but it's now probably sitting in some lost-in-found crate at one of the airports.

I need to learn to keep better track of my things. The damage tally for this trip? Not too bad. 1 pair of sunglasses (that I really liked) and 1 sketchbook/journal (irreplaceable). Still, it could be worse. I guess I'll start a new one...

Day in Transit

2008-07-05T22:21:00.000-07:00

I love airports! (but only when I'm going somewhere) They aren't as much fun when you have to head home.

Today was one continuous day of travel--us in transit. We scored a really good deal on our flight from Expedia, but our return trip itinerary was where we paid for it.

We left San Jose, Costa Rica mid afternoon. We hailed a taxi, and after some confusion about which bus station, we ended up going directly to the airport using up the last of our Costa Rican currency to pay the driver and the airport departure tax. Airport security was relatively hassle free, not like the mess it was in LAX.

When we landed in Mexico City after our connecting flight from Guatemala City, we headed straight for customs. It still didn't make sense to us why we had to go through customs when we were just passing through in transit, but this time around, we knew the drill. We followed the labyrinth of people-movers and elevators, got through customs, and proceeded to find a comfortable place to crash for the night, but no such luck. Within minutes we were confronted by airport security, who asked to see our itineraries.

"Your flight is tomorrow," he told us in Spanish.

Como se dice really long layover en espanol?

We tried to play the dumb tourist card, and I feigned not understanding Spanish so that maybe he would give up and leave us alone. And at that late at night, it didn't require a lot of acting on my part because my brain could barely function in English, forget Spanish. Eventually we gave up, thanked the nice security guard, who was geniunely trying to help us language barrier and all. We grabbed our packs and kept trucking in the direction he was pointing. From what I gathered, he told us we could wait in gate 25, and something about the airport closing at 12 (my translation skills don't work as well when I'm sleep deprived).

We tried to sleep, unsuccessfully, at gate 25, but then when the last flight took off we were again told that we couldn't sleep there and we had to leave. This trend continued throughout the night--us being ushered from place to place, everyone demanding to see our itinerary.

We discovered that Mexico City clears the airport at 12 (no overnight stays allowed) and they reopen at 4 am. We didn't really want to leave, but had very little choice. It was cold, and we were tired. We hunted around for somewhere to lay our packs down and sleep. The only place that was open was 7-Eleven, but we didn't forsee the owner being cool with us crashing out in his store front so we looked elsewhere. We found this really weird open, indoor-outdoor art and cultural history museum. People were laid out on the sides on the edges of the museum, sleeping, or trying too. We figured it was our best bet and made camp on the hard wooden floor of the art museum.

By 4am, we were cold, tired, and weary--but happy to leave the hard wooden floors. We reentered the airport (went through airport security again), warmed up with some hot, tasteless coffee, and tried once again, to sleep on those uncomfortable airport seats.

San Jose, Costa Rica

2008-07-03T22:06:00.000-07:00

Another city. Sadly, there's not much to it. San Jose was our least favorite city. The area we stayed in was kind of sketchy, and there really wasn't much to do. We wandered around the city park, which was kind of nice, but if you've ever been to New York's Central Park or the Boston Common, there isn't really a comparison.

I think our strong reason for dislike was also tied to the fact that we were leaving...San Jose marked our last city, last stop, and the end of our incredibly thrilling adventure.

The last day we stocked up on Costa Rican ice cream from the market--Dos Pinos, good stuff. We hung out and said our goodbyes to our fellow travelers who'd become like old friends in such a short amount of time.

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca

2008-07-01T00:51:00.000-07:00

We were excited to finally cross over to the northern border into Costa Rica--different money and another stamp on my passport! We were also a little sad because we knew the end of our trip was fast approaching, and made a point to enjoy the moment.

We met a lot of interesting characters in Costa Rica, free spirited people who embodied the spirt of pura vida. Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is a sleepy beach town on the Caribbean side of Costa Rica. It's a little hippie town where people seem to come and never leave. They get stuck--something about the great climate and natural beauty makes them stay. In all honesty, it wouldn't be that hard for me to imagine trading it all in for a hammock...

With the laid-back vibe of this town, it would have an easy decision to curl up in a hammock and catch up on some much needed rest. Instead, Fia and I decided not to waste the rest of the day away, so we rented bikes and explored the towns. Our beach cruisers were well-equipped with baskets, but lacked brakes. We puddled around for a little while at the handcrafts market. Then we biked to little strands of hidden beaches, each one more beautiful than the last.

Biking was a great way to see the towns, and although we had abandonned our map, we let our sense of curiosity guide us, and just continued to bike and explore. We would take detours if we saw something that caught our interest. Little side trails that led to secret beaches, roadside trees full of riotous howler monkeys, and a sign diverting us to "chocolat" were all reasons enough to pause.

A sign diverting us to chocolate led us on a long road through the forest. It was a long ride, but we persisted. We had to push our ill-equipped bikes up the mountain, and as timing would have it, we met the chocolate man on his way down. He was a friendly Swiss guy, and the owner of the organic chocolate opperation. We were dirty and covered in sweat and mud, but he must have been used to seeing tourists in this sate. He gave us a quick, private tour, and showed us the plant that chocolate was harvested from. We sat in his hut and sampled some of his delicious organic chocolate. They were hand wrapped like little cigars. We purchased 10 bars each, thanked him, and continued on our biking odyssey.

We biked all the way to Manzanillo--another beautiful beach area in a separate town. Dusk came too quickly, and we pedaled back as quickly as possible, trying to make use of the last bit of hazy daylight. Midway through our bike trip back, it was completely dark--no street lamps, only the occasional headlights of an oncoming car. Going through potholes was inevitable because we couldn't see the road to avoid them. It was a long and bumpy ride back to town in the dark, but we eventaully got there.

Day on the Catamaran

2008-06-29T00:34:00.000-07:00

We spent the day on a rented catamaran, floating between the islands, and enjoying the calm waters of the Caribbean. It was the most relaxing sailing experience that I've ever had. Staring at the open water and watching the dolphins swim by was unreal. I felt completely at peace.

We basked in the sun, and lounged around soaking up the salty scent of the sea and taking in the picturesque views of the islands surrounding us. Our captin docked in the middle of the water, and we took snorkels to the mangroves. While not quite as impressive as Hawaii, the ocean was teeming with life and vibrancy.

I felt like we could cruise forever on that boat, and that I'd never lose that feeling of contentment...

Bocas Del Toro

2008-06-28T21:57:00.000-07:00

Another beautiful city in Panama...it just goes to show that Panama has a diversity of beautiful places to see.

Bocas Del Toro is a chain of little islands off the coast of Panama on the Caribbean side. It's only accessible by way of water taxi--a speed boat that jets across the water as you rip past postcard perfect scenery and little islands of greenery.

There are a lot of cute waterside restaurants, which to dine at in LA would cost a hefty sum, but in Panama everything is very reasonable. Dinner every night came with a perfect view and our eyes were treated to the occasional lightning storm. It was majestic to watch it light up the sky, and the clarity of the ocean water was incredible too.

We stayed on the main island, Isla Colon, which is a big party island and backpacker's haven. The bars alternate locations for ladies' night, so on any given night there is somewhere that girls can drink for free. There is a definite hostel-backpacker vibe to the busy island, and it may be a little more on the touristy side than I normally would like, but it was a blast.

Our first night we hopped to different happy hours and sampled the island's party life. Then we headed over to Aqua Lounge, host of ladies' night. Aqua Lounge is a bar located in the middle of the ocean. It's accessible only by water taxi. The dance floor is a deck. There are whimsical swings, and you're swinging right over the ocean! I felt like I was eight years old again playing on the swings. There is a big hole cut in the middle of the deck where the ocean water filters in like an inviting swimming pool. And the best part? A trampoline a few meters from the bar floating in the ocean!

It was just too tempting to resist. I thought to myself, "how many times in my life am I going to get the chance to be on a bar in the middle of the ocean, and get to go on a trampoline?!" I brought this point up to my traveling mates and convinced them all that we should go for it, and after a couple of drinks, we were all taken by the idea. We linked up our arms and jumped into the ocean, jeans and all. We swam to the trampoline and had a merry, jumping good time.

After the initial shock wore off, other people started to take our lead, and ten minutes later, half the bar was in the water. We'd like to think that we started the movement for that night. There always has to be someone to jump in the ocean first, but I'm sure at Aqua Lounge, it's a nightly ritual that gets repeated time and time again.

It was a crazy night, and while I regretted my clothing choice--tight, wet jeans are not much fun--it's definetely an experience I'll always remember...

Climbing in Boquete

2008-06-25T20:26:00.000-07:00

Boquete has some awesome rock formations. And although climbing is a relatively new concept in Panama (most of the locals will think your nuts), it's a growing sport there-- thanks to the vision of a couple of local Panamanians who are paving the way and building their own climbing community.

Our two guides were also the pioneers of making outdoor climbing more accessible in a place where the sport hasn't begun to take off quite yet. They've secured permission from the government to put up bolts and routes in exchange for maintaining the area. The two guys are very passionate about climbing and very diligent about beautifying the area in the process. They're also incredibly skilled climbers who learned to climb from friends in Southern California, in J-Tree and Bishop. They purchased a lot of gear from Cali and used it to set up their opperation.

They have set multiple routes in three different areas: El Guenco, Mana, and El Paradiso. The different areas are set up for lead, top roping, trad, crack climbing, and sport. The level of difficulty starts at routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.10b in the first area, 5.11 to 5.12c in the second and third areas.

I found the routes to be doable and others a bit challenging. I mostly stuck to the Guenco wall. After about an hour and a half, I was pumped, and we decided to call it quits. The light drizzle was making the rocks a bit slippery anyhow, and I stupidly forgot to douse myself in insect repellent that morning (you have to bathe with that stuff while in Panama) and therefore, was getting feasted on by mosquitoes. Still glad we got to check out the climbing scene here.

I think if I come back in a few years, I'll be amazed by the climbing scene here in Panama because it already looks like it could be the start of something special.

Whitewater Kayaking

2008-06-24T00:17:00.000-07:00

It was the highlight of the trip, which is saying a lot because this trip has been full of so many great memories and adventure.

I don't think I will ever look at an ocean kayak the same way...

Coming off the grueling volcano hike, it was going to be another action packed day. Our guide, Jim, came to our cabina to pick us up. There was an instant rapport. He drove around looking for beers for lunch, but there wasn't any place that would sell them to us that early, so we picked up breakfast instead--some pastries at the market.

Both of the guides, Jim and Papito, were easy to talk to. We had never whitewater kayaked before, but they were excellent instructors and made us feel very comfortable with the water. The first thing we did was practice "going for a swim" or what to do after falling out of the boat because apparently it's inevitable for beginners.

The rapids were small, class 2 and 3, but it's that much more magnified when you're in a little kayak compared to a giant raft. I guess the thing that I loved the most was seeing how your brain responds to stressful situations. There's so much adrenaline, and you really get a chance to see how you react to making split second decisions under pressure. There's no one else to help you paddle or bail you out when you make a mistake (well the guides are there to help you when you go for a swim, but other than that, it's all you). The rush from whitewater kayaking is unlike anything I've ever experienced (we whitewater rafted a National Geographic top 10, but even that paled in comparison).

Fia and I took turns going for a swim. We logged two each and really felt bad for our hardworking guides, but then we started to get the hang of it. I was amazed at how quickly the mind can adapt to those types of situations. I could feel myself willing the panic away and honing in own my powers of concentration. "Don't hit the rocks; stay in the boat; don't die," became my mantra. You feel your mind and body kick it into high gear as the rapids trigger your sense of danger. The whole experience was intense! Getting through my first rapid gave me such a jolt of excitement. It'll be hard to match that kind of thrill with anything else.

We booked our trip through Boquete Outdoor Adventures. It's a small adventure outfit owned by two Americans, and that was apparent right away because I think it was the only time on the trip that we had to sign waivers. We loved our experience with them. The pricing was reasonable, and our guides were the best! We had a 1 to 1 ratio of guides because it was just the two of us. We heard they do really good custom trips and would love to put some kind of group trip together and come back someday.

Midnight Volcano Hike

2008-06-23T23:02:00.000-07:00

8:30 pm: Go to the local market to stock up on water, granola bars, and a banana for the hike

10:30 pm: Get back from the Internet Cafe and try to catch some zzzzzzzz

11:15 pm: Roll out of bed and throw stuff we think we'll need in our packs. My normally non-cumbersome backpack/purse doesn't seem to hold enough

11:30 pm: The Jeep comes to get us, but we're still groggy from not enough sleep. We drive through town, then through the most bumpy impassable road to the base of Vocan Baru.

11:43 pm: and the hike begins...

It's so dark we can't see anything besides the few feet in front of us that the headlamps allow. The path is not what we expected at all. It's not a trail--and it's certainly not a foot path--more like a steep road full of boulders, loose rock and canyons.

We immediately see why we warned about this hike; it isn't for the casual hiker. We start to peel off extra layers of clothing and regret that we even brought jackets. It isn't cold out, and the exertion of the hike makes it seem hot.

After we've hit the first couple of trail markers, we're still in good spirits, and we naively think we're making good time. Two hours into the hike, we realize that we've been crawling. The group starts to stagger, and it becomes a mental uphill battle for each of us. We all wonder how this ever seemed like a good idea.

To keep our minds off how strenuous the hike is turning out to be, we play an international game of 20 questions. It works for a little while to trick our minds into forgetting how exhausted we actually are, but after awhile the game is abandoned because we're trying to conserve every last bit of energy to get to the top.

We finally reach the top in 5.8 hours. It's gorgeous and the views are incredible, but the cross that is sticking out from the middle of a steep jagged climb is the actual top--celebration too soon. We do a little climbing and scrambling to get up the unstable rock, and if we weren't so deliriously tired it might have registered how dangerous and unsteady that last part of the ascent really was.

The view at the top is amazing. Standing on top of the highest point in Panama feels more like being on top of the world. We were standing above the clouds, and watched the sun break through. The peak we were standing on strandled two oceans.

We couldn't enjoy the view for too long becuase it was freezing cold. We put on every single article of clothing we had brought with us, and it still wasn't enough. We said goodbye to the beautiful mountain, and tried to get down the volcano as quick as possible. The loose rock made it tricky. There was a lot of skidding, and by that point we were so tired--even amidst the beautiful scenery, (since it was no longer dark, it was like a completely different hike) all I could think about was a soft bed and a warm shower.

The Surf House on the Pacific

2008-06-21T01:43:00.000-07:00

As charming as the town of El Valle was, a day and a half was good enough. We bussed it over to the surf house on the Pacific side.

It was a relaxing day playing in the waves, lounging on the beach, and hanging out at the pool. I even did a little surfing, or tried, would be a better word...the waves were pretty intense, and I got tossed more times than I got up.

One of my favorite parts about traveling is getting to meet different people on the road. This trip was no exception. We met a lot of great people and made some really good friends. We ended up doing a house barbeque. Fia, Carine, and I were part of the prep team, and we learned a lot under the direction of Alex, an engineer with a talent for cooking. I never knew you could sharpen knives with the underside of a mug.
Alex was traveling with his wife, Alex. Cute, right? They were newlyweds on their honeymoon, and just fun people. Hopefully we will get to catch up with them in California when they return from their travels.

Good food. Good company. We couldn't ask for a better day.

El Valle

2008-06-21T01:12:00.000-07:00

El Valle is a charming, litte mountainous town. It was nice to finally get out of the city and back to nature. We were so ready for the adventure part of the trip to begin.

There isn't much going on in the little town of El Valle. There was a short hike to a 70-foot waterfall, but Fia and I got sidetracked by the little handcrafts market on our way to the falls. We stopped when we saw the sweets, and before we knew what was happening, we found ourselves bargaining at the various stalls for trinkets and souvineers for people back home.

Our little detour ended up costing us a lot more time than we realized. The sun was beginning to fall, and we were told by our traveling mates who were already on their way back that the entrance was closed. Apparently, the city of El Valle has taken a very capitalist approach to their prized waterfall, and there is a gated booth that charges an entrance fee.

Not wanting to head back after we made it so far without a peek, we were told by the group that they had hopped the fence and snuck in. We decided to do the same. It wasn't difficult to hop the little gate, but we were quite paranoid about getting caught. Once on the other side there was a series of wooden bridges to cross and little stepping stones. The entire scene, I imagine, must have been pretty impressive during daylight hours... but it was much creepier in the dark. Our imaginations got the better of us, and after a quick peek and a couple of black photos, we ran out of there.

The Panama Canal

2008-06-20T00:46:00.000-07:00

One of the great modern engineering marvels of the world...

We decided that you couldn't come to Panama without seeing the canal. Although we didn't realize how long it would take for the ships to get through the locks and squeeze through the little isthumus. The shortest time is roughly two and a half hours!

Watching the hydrolics was cool, but you can only watch a slow moving ship for so long, then it becomes about as fascinating as watching paint dry.

Visit to Embera Village

2008-06-19T22:18:00.000-07:00

It took us over an hour by taxi to get out of the city. Outside the city center, the roads are not well maintained and the rules of the road play out more like a video game--driving to avoid cyclists, oncoming motorists, buses, and the occasional boulders in the middle of the road. It made for an interesting drive. Luckily, we had an awesome driver, Francisco. He was our very chatty unofficial guide, and we learned all about his family and Panamanian life while he navigated the roads like a pro.

The scenery changed quickly. It went from skyscrappers to humble dwellings in scattered villages. Besides the humidity, the other thing that is immediately noticeable about Panama is the overwhelming greenery. The ride may have been a little bumpy, but the views from the window more than made up for it.

The Embera Village was a cool experience. It felt like something straight out of the Discovery Channel. We learned a lot and got great insight into the indigenous culture and their melding of traditional and modern ways. I thought it was very ingenious and industrious of the tribe to open themselves up to tourism as a way of revenue and a way to preserve their culture and keep some of their traditions alive.

It was a very educational and rewarding experience and we felt honored to be given the chance to interact with the people, share in a meal, learn about their past and present, and dance with them. Even if it is an experience catered to tourists, there is still something very genuine about the people and their willingness to openly share their culture. Although a part of us wondered if they breathed a sigh of relief once all the tourists left, tore off their costumes, and transformed their village, much like the changing of a movie set...

As if the dancing, eating, and learning weren't enough for one day, we continued our adventureous canoe ride upriver to a little hiking spot that led to an amazing waterfall and swimming area.

Panama City

2008-06-17T23:55:00.000-07:00

We fell in love with Panama City! The people, the food, and the architecture captivated us from the beginning. Casco Viejo is the old part of the city. It's a place brimming with character and charm, and Fia and I felt right at home with the locals. We immediately took to the food, the pace of life, and managed to navigate the tricky transportation system.

The first night we bunked in Luna's Castle, an artsy little hostel in the heart of Casco Viejo. No air conditioning, but for $10 a night and an incredible view, we really had nothing to complain about. What struck us the most was the beautiful, quirky artwork that surrounded the hostel. You can stay for free if you lend them your artistic talents, which is why the hostel is full of an eccletic mix of creative expression.

The next morning we hopped the a local bus, the diablo rojo, which are these outrageously painted school buses decked out in graffiti and loud colors that scream flashback to the 90s. (Think The Fresh Prince of Bel Air). For 25 cents, we chose a bus at random and rode it around the city just to see where it would go...

While wandering the city, we got caught in a torrential tropical storm (it is rainy season). We were completely illprepared trekking our way back through town in shorts, tank tops, and flip flops splashing through the puddles that had collected from the pouring rain. Within minutes we were drenched to the bone. We got quite a few strange looks from the locals, and honks from the cars passing by, offering to give us a ride out of the rain.

Thoughts on graduation

2008-06-14T18:30:00.000-07:00

The sun comes up and goes away, so does graduation day...

FINALLY! College has been a defining experience where I've gotten the chance to learn, grow, and thrive. Even though it took me an extra year, I have no regrets. I'm glad I took the time to explore--it's been an enjoyable journey throughout where I've entertained the idea of becoming an anthropologist, a designer, a sociologist, a teacher, and have somehow ended up in marketing.

Life is a crazy journey and college has been a great jumping off point. I've met a lot of great people, camped under the open stars at Red Mountain for an archaeological dig, done multiple road trips with friends, happy hour hops with co-workers, a study abroard experience in China, completed a full marathon, skydived, white water rafted, indulged in new hobbies, backpacked through Europe, was the editor-in-chief of a deparment magazine, worked at a theme park, a coffehouse, and landed a great internship. It's definetely been an eventful five years, and I'm not sure if I'm ready to let them go.

I've straddled the working world and student life for so long, and I've had fun doing it. I think I'm going to miss the balancing act and the crazy chaos associated with trying to do it all. The 9 to 5 (and sometimes later) from here on out seems daunting. I'm going to need a diversion--something to break up the monotony...and I'm starting to wonder if my little weekend escapes will be enough to sustain my appetite and need for adventure...

Life is what you make of it, right? Hopefully, it only gets better from here.

Gear Review: Keen Newport H2

2008-06-03T13:16:00.000-07:00

I got these a month ago for my little weekend excursions. The fit is great and they're comfortable and light weight, which makes them easy to pack. After three hikes and 20 + miles they've held up pretty well. Even wet, these shoes provide great traction. I loved the ease with which you can river cross and go from wet to dry without any problems.

The only negative? They aren't designed for longer hikes. My feet were feeling it after the 10 mile mark. The light weight construction means that there isn't as much cushioning as your standard pair of heavy hiking boots. The best use is for short day hikes with water. Also, if you do a rocky trail, those little annoying rocks will sometimes get stuck inside the shoe. Overall, I'm happy with my Keens.

The Slides

2008-06-01T22:33:00.000-07:00

Wooohoooo!

So clearly I have a thing for waterfalls...This was one of those amazing hikes where I felt like I'd escaped even though home was a mere two hours away. I guess it was kind of a drive, especially with gas prices being the way they are...but the pictures say it all. I was blown away by the beautiful scenery. The hike itself wasn't strenous, but it was pretty hard to navigate. There are signs everywhere that say "trail not maintained" and they weren't kidding! It's as if the parks service forgot about this place. We veered off-course multiple times, and at one point we were just wandering, following the river upstream. The trail leading up to the switchbacks is rocky and there are multiple river crossings. But losing the trail makes for a good adventure.

The reward? An awesome waterfall that feeds into clear emerald green waters. The pool is deep and perfect for cliff diving. There are even ropes for you to climb and swing from like Tarzan. It's a great spot to spend a hot summer afternoon.

If you double back and climb around the falls, on the otherside, there is an even more amazing sight, natural water slides!

Beautiful rock formations worn smooth by the fast moving water. The only negative? There's a lot of senseless tagging and graffiti on the trails and even on the gorgeous rocks. People should really leave nature alone and go back to defacing buildings. At least that can be covered with a little paint.

Somewhere near Tujunga...

2008-05-24T23:41:00.000-07:00

I'm a sucker for hikes with pretty scenery--otherwise, what's the point? This trail was a little hard to find. North of Sunland and Tujunga, you follow Mt. Gleason Rd. through the Angeles National Forest. There's a small, unmarked dirt road that's easy to miss even if you know what your looking for...

The hike itself was a lot of fun. Dense vegetation, heavy canopy in some parts, and rock hopping on the multiple stream crossings help keep it iteresting. About two miles into the trail is the waterfall. There aren't any signs, just a steep rocky trail that leads to the falls. If you listen to the sound of the water, you can hear it before you spot it.

Beyond the waterfall is the Tom Lucas Camp, and beyond that is Condor Peak. The further into the trail you get, the less maintained it becomes. There are also patches of poison oak to look out for.

Even though it was a misty day, the views were still beautiful. The waterfall was definetely the highlight though. Overall it's a good hike.

Paradise Falls

2008-05-17T12:54:00.000-07:00

Tucked away in a quiet residental neighborhood in Thousand Oaks is the Paradise Falls trail--a great local day hike for LA residents looking for a quick escape. Parking is free and the trails are well-maintained. From the small parking lot, take the marked trail and follow the signs to Paradise Falls about (1.5 miles). The evevation gain isn't too bad, making this a relatively moderate hike. Even in the early summer heat, this 50-ft waterfall still has a nice flow.

The pool of water is fairly deep. We went for a refreshing swim and climbed up into the small cave. The cold water was a welcome change from the blazing summer heat.

There's plenty of rock hopping if you want to venture further down the creek. I tried to traverse climb toward the mouth of the waterfall, but the rock was crumbly toward the base--best to just jump in and go for a swim.

Exploring Indian Cave..a little further down the trail... It looks man-made, and is rather small, but interesting enough for a quick view. If you take the steep unmarked trail from the cave's exit, you can loop back up to the main trail.

The wooden tepee structure is located at the halfway point to paradise falls. It's a good stop for a water break, and the shaded seating area makes it an ideal spot for a picnic.

Jalama Beach

2008-05-04T09:18:00.000-07:00

It was a relaxing weekend, waking up to the sound of the surf...I haven't been to Jalama Beach since I was little, and in all that time, it hasn't changed much. It is still the same secluded strand of beach with huge swells and sea cliffs that tower above it. The road to Jalama is a winding one through the green mountainous valley, 14 miles away from the main highway. When we finally reached the campsite the best sites were already taken, but really there aren't any bad spots at Jalama. When you overlook the ocean and can watch a perfect sunset, from where I'm sitting, it's pretty good.

Watching the sunset from our tent...

It's the kind of place where a sense of tranquility comes automatically. You forget about the outside world and everything else melts away...

San Diego 5K Mud Run

2008-04-15T10:37:00.000-07:00

There aren't that many times that you get to jump around in the mud and feel like a kid again. That's what made the San Diego Mud Run so much fun. It was a 5K trail race filled with mud obstacles and pits of mud.

I almost lost my shoes in the first mud pit, and it made sense why the veterans of this run duct taped their shoes. The cardio hill slowed everyone down, but getting to splash around in the mud made up for the 95 degree heat and the killer uphill climb.

Escaping the heat: weekend in SD

2008-04-15T10:18:00.001-07:00

Crystal clear waters in La Jolla Cove.

It was over 95 degrees in the valley this weekend, but a perfect 80 on the coast. When you grow up in a place like California, it's easy to forget how lucky you are...The beach, the mountains--whatever you want is only a short drive away.

reflections on the marathon

2008-04-08T17:56:00.001-07:00

It's been about a month since the LA Marathon. I thought I'd give myself some time to think about whether or not I wanted to do it again...By now the blisters have healed and the memory of the pain has long since faded, but do I really want to put myself through that again?

I've thought about the grueling 26.2 miles and the mental roller coaster ride of wanting to quit when it seemed like I had nothing left, and the reward of perseverance that came in the form of mini-celebrations at each mile marker and the exaltation of crossing the finish line at the end.

While the rational part of my brain is screaming "AGAIN?! Are you NUTS?", there is still a part of me who wants to do it again for a better finishing time. Maybe with the hindsight of experience and consistent training, this time around will be a little different. I won't go as far as saying "easier" because nothing about 26.2 miles is easy, but maybe I'm getting hooked by this running bug after all.

A little bit of history...the marathon is actually named after a city in Greece. According to the Greek legend, Pheidippides was a soldier who ran the 27 miles between the Greek cities of Marathon and Athens to report that the Persians had been defeated, and soon after making his announcement he died of exhaustion. Hmmmm...maybe that's why we only run 26.2 instead of 27? I don't have an answer for those people who run ultra marathons--they're superhuman or something.

But it looks like I'm in for LA 09'...we'll see if that holds...

Scenes from the LA Brewery Artwalk

2008-04-08T01:25:00.000-07:00

Fourth time at the Brewery Art Walk--it never gets old. One of my favorite parts of the art show is getting to see how the artists design their living spaces. This kitchen, a throwback to the 50s, was kinda cool looking.

View from the scaffold...

Learning To Fly

2008-03-30T11:22:00.000-07:00

So this was a year overdue, but we finally got around to doing it. Last spring break Fia, Cait, and I tried to skydive in Santa Barbara, but the weather had other plans for us. We ended up cutting our losses and hanging out in downtown SB instead.

This year, after everyone else bailed, Fia, Ravi, and I couldn't get a reservation for San Diego...we were starting to think that maybe it was a sign...

Then we got a reservation at Lake Elsinore for 7:30 AM. I crashed at Fia's apratment and Ravi met us in the morning. There was definetely nervous tension on the drive over. I guess the reality that we were actually going to do it was sinking in.

The most nervewracking part of the experience, believe it or not, was not the plane ride up or even the jumping out of the plane bit--it was all the paperwork. I never knew there were that many ways in the English language to express "you cannot sue us," but in this sue-happy state we live in, I guess I shouldn't be surprised. There were about 30 places for us to initial. Then we had to read a statement, state our full name and the date while they filmed us. After that, they sent us to a small room to watch a "safety video," but it was really more of a "if you die, we are not responsible" video. The spokeman kept emphasizing that there was no perfect parachute, no perfect instructor, and no perfect student. The image of the ambulance was a little unsettling.

It's great to go with friends who have a really good sense of humor because we were able to turn all of the nervous energy into fun. We laughed a lot and joked around. We used my digital camera to record a "last words" video.

We paid a little extra to have a cameraman jump with us to take digital photos and film the experience on a DVD. We even got to pick the soundtrack. After 30 minutes of indecisiveness, all three of us ended up selecting tracks one and two--both U2 songs, "Beautiful Day" and "Elevation." Good stuff.

We had to wait around awhile for the clouds to clear, but it really was turning out to be a beautiful day. We met our instructors, did a brief practice run through for what was going to happen at 12,500 ft in the air. Then jumpers, instructors, and camera people all piled into the small plane.

I watched the odometer slowly climb as we made our acsent. When it was finally time for me to make the jump, it was like time slowed down. Leaning out of the edge of the plane looking out at the world below, I could actually see the curvature of the earth. Then diving out into the direction of the wind, there was a split second where my mind realized that my feet were no longer in contact with the ground. The whole experience was surreal.

We floated for awhile, until my instructor moved my arm with the odometer to the front of my face, which was my signal to deploy the parachute. But I couldn't find the round orange knob to pull the cord! It was different than practice because the wind was hitting us at 120 mph. I knew we had all the reserve chutes and because I was jumping with someone who had logged 1000s of jumps, I was oddly calm. Eventually I found the knob and our parachute deployed.

I got to steer the parachute and we got to spin and turn and do cool stuff in the air. The view was phenomenal! I watched as a cloud came at us and we floated right under it. I was actually surprised at how much control we had over the parachute. The landing was easy, and it was kind of a let down that it was over so quickly.

Fia, Ravi, and I agreed that we'll have to do it again. Maybe at the grand canyon...
We talked about how fun it would be to get certified and jump on our own. But with all the jumps and hours of training you have to log in, I can see how this could be a very expensive hobby. But that feeling is so addicting--there's nothing else like it!

Kings 4-0 Shutout Victory!

2008-03-28T20:18:00.000-07:00

Timmy and me at the Kings vs. Coyotes game...

All of the goals came in the second and third periods. It was fun to watch, especially the fighting parts. I don't think I'm a violent person, but fighting in hockey is like tackling in football--all part of the game.

Nothing trumps the excitement of basketball though. GO LAKERS!

Sea cave kayaking

2008-03-26T12:19:00.000-07:00

The kayaking excursion was amazing. The Channel Islands are known for their natural sea caves. From far away they're pretty impressive, but up close they're stunning. Paddling through the first cave was such a rush! It opened up into a high cathedral ceiling, and for awhile I just paddled back and forth admiring the massiveness of its unspoken beauty. I wish I could have posted pictures of the caves, but I haven't gotten around to water-proofing my camera, and didn't want to lose another camera to the water.

The last cave we went through our guide appropriately named, "the washing machine." There were three openings where the tide rushed in. The goal was to go in and get out, without getting squished against the cave walls while being tossed around like a pair of socks in the spin cycle. It was sooooo much fun!

Getting there: Santa Cruz Island

2008-03-26T12:07:00.000-07:00

A little piece of paradise only 26 miles off the coast of the Ventura Harbor...It takes about an hour by boat to get to Santa Cruz Island Scorpion Ranch. We carried all our gear for a half mile to the campsite. The island is beautiful with rolling green hills and awesome views of the coast for miles around. It's "leave no trace" style camping, so everything we packed in came back with us. The low human impact helps perserve that feeling of unspoiled remoteness...it's easy to channel Thoreau.

Channel Islands Camping Trip

2008-03-25T23:13:00.000-07:00

Channel Islands Escape

It's amazing how easily you can find clarity when you escape the glare of the city lights...Plus the way the stars look at night is unbeatable...
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